Fruit Fly Trap

Reusable Bottle Trap for Queensland Fruit Fly Control
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Fruit Fly Trap | The Olive Centre – Reusable Bottle Trap for Queensland Fruit Fly Control

Designed for use with Wild May Organic Attractant to lure and drown male Queensland fruit flies.

The Fruit Fly Trap is a reusable, easy-to-use bottle-style trap engineered to monitor and control male Queensland fruit flies (Bactrocera tryoni). Featuring a removable lid with four funnelled entry holes, the trap allows fruit flies to enter but prevents them from escaping. Once inside, the flies are attracted to the Wild May Organic Fruit Fly Attractant, where they eventually drown in the liquid solution.
Ideal for both home gardens and commercial orchards, this trap offers an effective, chemical-free way to reduce fruit fly populations year-round. Regular use helps break the breeding cycle, protecting fruit and vegetable crops from infestation.

Uses

The Fruit Fly Trap is used to monitor and mass-trap Queensland fruit flies in fruit trees, vegetable gardens, and commercial orchards. When paired with Wild May Organic Attractant, it serves as a long-term, pesticide-free control system that targets male flies to prevent reproduction. The trap can be deployed throughout the year to maintain population suppression, reducing the risk of fruit damage during peak ripening seasons. Its simple, reusable design makes it ideal for organic growers, home gardeners, and integrated pest management programs.

How It Works

The trap attracts male fruit flies using the Wild May Organic Attractant, a naturally derived essential oil lure. Flies are drawn into the trap through the funnelled holes in the lid but cannot exit due to the angled entry design. Once inside, they drown in the attractant solution, effectively reducing local populations and interrupting the breeding cycle. Over time, this approach prevents new infestations by eliminating males before they reach sexual maturity. Continuous year-round trapping ensures long-term control and can lead to complete suppression in certain areas.

Directions for Use
  • Fill the bottom of the trap with 20–30 mm (approx. 250 mL) of Wild May Attractant.
  • Hang the trap in a shaded branch, ideally on the eastern side of the tree, about 1.2 metres above ground level.
  • Position traps upwind of the affected area for maximum effectiveness.
  • Replace or top up attractant when the liquid level drops below 15 mm or after heavy rainfall.
  • Remove dead flies periodically to maintain trapping efficiency.
  • Use 4–10 traps per hectare in commercial orchards or 1 trap per tree for home gardens.
Hint: Keep traps active year-round for best results. Continuous use significantly reduces fruit fly strikes and can help achieve total area suppression.

Compatibility

This trap is specifically designed for use with Wild May Organic Fruit Fly Attractant. Together, they form a complete pesticide-free trapping system suitable for both monitoring and control. The trap can be used in conjunction with other organic pest management practices, including sanitation and exclusion netting, for comprehensive fruit protection.

Technical Specifications
 
Specification Details
Trap Type Reusable bottle trap with removable lid
Entry Design Four funnelled entry holes
Target Pest Male Queensland Fruit Fly (*Bactrocera tryoni*)
Trap Medium Wild May Organic Attractant (liquid)
Material Weather-resistant plastic
Capacity Holds 250 mL of attractant
Recommended Density 1 trap per tree or 4–10 traps per hectare
Placement Height 1.2 metres above ground

Why Choose This Product

The Fruit Fly Trap provides an effective and sustainable way to control fruit flies without the need for harmful pesticides. It is durable, easy to use, and designed for long-term deployment in both domestic and commercial environments. When used alongside Wild May Attractant, it offers a proven system that significantly reduces fruit fly damage, improving crop quality and market value. Its natural trapping method supports organic production systems and environmentally responsible pest control practices.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Fruit Fly Trap is designed as a male-specific lure and kill system for Queensland fruit fly (Bactrocera tryoni). The bottle-style trap features four funnelled entry holes that allow flies to enter easily but prevent escape. When used with the Wild May Organic Attractant, which contains natural essential oils proven to attract male fruit flies, the insects are drawn inside and then drown in the liquid solution.

This system effectively disrupts the breeding cycle by removing males before they can mate with females. Continuous use helps reduce population levels over time, providing a safe, chemical-free solution for both home gardeners and commercial growers. The non-toxic attractant ensures no harm to beneficial insects, pets, or the surrounding environment.
For optimal coverage, install traps at the following densities:
  • Home gardens: 1 trap per fruit tree or up to 3 traps per backyard.
  • Commercial orchards or vineyards: 4–10 traps per hectare (2.5 acres), evenly spaced around the block perimeter.
Traps should be placed upwind of susceptible crops so that fruit fly scent trails are carried toward the traps. Hang each trap on a shaded eastern branch, approximately 1.2 metres above ground level — ideally before fruit ripening begins. The attractant should fill the trap base to a depth of 20–30 mm (about 250 mL) to ensure effective drowning of trapped insects.

Positioning traps early and maintaining consistent coverage year-round greatly reduces the chance of infestation during the growing season.
To maintain continuous protection, refill traps whenever the attractant evaporates below 15 mm or appears cloudy with debris. When recharging:
  • Remove dead flies using a sieve or spoon.
  • Top up with fresh Wild May attractant to a depth of 20–30 mm.
  • Rinse traps lightly with water between refills to prevent odour build-up.
In warm or dry climates, refilling may be needed every 3–4 weeks, while in cooler conditions, the attractant can last longer. Continuous year-round use is recommended — research from Wild May trials has shown that maintaining traps across all seasons leads to drastic reductions or complete elimination of fruit fly activity in some orchards.
Yes — for best results, traps should remain in place all year round. Even when no fruit is present, overwintering fruit fly pupae in the soil can emerge as adults and start new populations. Keeping traps active ensures juvenile males are caught before reaching sexual maturity, breaking the reproductive cycle before the next growing season.

By maintaining this continuous trapping system, growers can prevent re-infestation and safeguard future crops, creating a long-term, sustainable solution for fruit fly management without relying on pesticides.

 
Key Features
  • Reusable bottle trap with removable screw lid for easy refilling
  • Four funnelled entry holes allow flies to enter but prevent escape
  • Works with Wild May Organic Fruit Fly Attractant (sold separately)
  • Chemical-free, non-toxic pest control method
  • Durable, weather-resistant plastic construction
  • Effective for both monitoring and control in home gardens or orchards
  • Proven performance in Queensland fruit fly suppression programs
  • Cost-efficient and environmentally friendly design
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Anthracnose in Olives | Gloeosporium olivarum | Olive Pests and Diseases

Anthracnose

During the oil-processing season, Anthracnose can be a problem for some growers in certain areas.  It is urgent that this issue is addressed otherwise oil quality may be drastically reduced. 

Description 

 The fungus that causes this disease is called Gloeosporium olivarum.  Anthracnose is the general term given to diseases that result in roundish black spots on fruit, leaves and stems of various plant species.

What are the symptoms?

Initially, single roundish ocre-coloured spots appear on the olives.  Later these spots grow and may join up.  Normally attacks start at the tip of the fruit where rainwater accumulates.  As the disease progresses, all or part of the infected fruit starts to rot, dries up, shrivels and becomes mummified.

The oil obtained from olives harvested with anthracnose is poorer in quality because alterations occur in their colour, acidity and organoleptic characteristics.


How the fruit is infected?

There are two main sources of spores produced by a species of Collectotrichum, a type called ‘conidio’ and others called ‘ascospores’.  The conidia remain active inside the mummified fruit for a year, which may be the primary inoculum source.

Collectotrichum is a very successful colonizer of plant material.  It grows rapidly and can cause large amounts of tissue destruction.  Collectotrichum exhibits an alternative growth pattern where they have a two-phase infection process (or secondly infection) in which the initially appear symptomless but the fruit has been infected.  After this period of non-destructive growth or if high moisture levels are maintained, the fungus when switches to its normal phase where tissue breakdown occurs.

When rainfall occurs, conidia separate from their fruiting body and then quickly enter the fruit through the epidermis.  The conidia always need moisture, whether it is rain, dew or high humidity, to germinate and infect.

Normally infection takes place at between 15oC and 25oC, the optimum being 25oC.  At this temperature, the typical symptoms of the disease appear within 2-3 days and the ascospores appear about 3 days later.

Anthracnose can affect various parts of the plant:

  • Flowers – causing blight 
  • Leaves – leaf spots or peacock spot.  
  • Fruit before harvest – spotting and rotting 
  • Post-harvest fruit infection


What can be done to help prevent Anthracnose?

There are no approved chemicals for olives but there are chemicals registered for controlling Anthracnose which include:-  champ dry prill, copper oxychloride (organic growers use this quite successfully), cupric hydroxide, cuprous oxide, dichloflunid, dimethomorph, mancozeb, metiram, pholoraz, propineb, thiram and zineb.  Permits are available for the use of cupric hydroxide and copper oxychloride for various olive fungal leaf spots and fruit rots including peacock spot.

Sprays should be applied now and should double as a preventative for anthracnose and peacock spot.  It is too late to try to fix the problem after it happens.  Prevention is important.  Olive oil from anthracnose-infected fruit will be poor in quality and often only suitable for burning in oil lamps.

Black Olive Scale Explained | Olive Pests & Diseases

INFORMATION SHEET - PEST & DISEASES

Black Olive Scale Explained

Occasionally a sap-sucking insect known as Brown or Black Olive Scale will be seen on olive trees. It is rarely a problem if the trees are in good health. We usually only spray our mature trees for scale every two to three years and only then if they need it. However, certain areas of Australia are more prone to the scale.

If your olive tree has black spots on branches or an infestation of black scale, it's crucial to act quickly. Scale on olive trees, including black olive scale, appears as dark bumps that weaken growth. For black scale treatment, use a proven treatment, introduce beneficial insects, and prune for better air circulation. If you're wondering how to get rid of black scale on an olive tree, early detection and prompt action are key to protecting your grove.

About

The adult females are very easy to recognise on the olive tree stems. They are dome shaped, dark brown to black in colour, and about the size of a match head.

The tiny eggs laid under the female, look like piles of very fine sand. Mainly during the summer, these eggs hatch into tiny, six-legged, cream coloured ‘crawlers’. The crawlers move up the stems and usually settle along the veins of young leaves. At this stage they don’t have the impervious shell of the adult and can usually be killed with one or two applications of white oil about two weeks apart. White oil should be used only as directed on the label by the manufacturers (and by your agricultural department) and never during the hot part of the day. It puts an oil film over the young ‘crawler’ and suffocates it. If applied in the hot part of the day it also stops the leaves from breathing properly and can be detrimental to the tree. The White oil application will also tend to rid the tree of ‘sooty mould’ as discussed soon.

If the crawlers are allowed to live, they will moult after about one month and then migrate to the young stems and twigs of the tree. Here they will mature and lay more eggs and their protective brown shells will be impervious to white oil. Squash the scale between your fingers to see if it is alive. If it is alive, then your fingers will be wet from the juices squeezed out. If it is dead then your fingers will be dry and dusty.

Bad infestations of live mature scale may need spraying with an insecticide such as Supracide. (Important: See note regarding “Treatment”) In Greece, Supracide is the main spray used for most olive problems. Once again, check with your local agricultural chemical supplier and the product label, for directions.

Probably the damage done by the scale itself to the tough olive tree is negligible compared with what happens next.

As the scale feeds, the ‘manure’ they excrete is a sweet, sticky, ‘honeydew’. This excreted sticky liquid can finally cover the leaves of the entire tree. A fungus known as sooty mould feeds on this food and multiplies until the entire tree may be covered with the black sooty mould. This is where the real problem lies.

The leaves are coated with the black deposit, so the sun’s light can’t penetrate the leaves properly. Therefore photosynthesis can’t take place efficiently. Therefore, ‘root producing’ food is not manufactured in the leaf. Therefore roots don’t develop properly. Therefore the poor root system can’t collect enough food and water from the soil to send up to produce more leaves, which in turn will produce more root. Once the vicious cycle begins, a stunted and unhealthy tree with poor crops is the result.

To make the problem worse, sweet ‘honeydew’ on the leaves also attracts large numbers of ants. It appears that as the ants constantly move over the scale, they frighten away the small wasp parasites which in normal cases would keep the scale under control.

Black Olive Scale Gallery

Adult scale on the underside of olive leaves

 Overturned scale with orange crawlers showing.

An olive branch covered in sooty mould.

Closeup of sooty mould on olive leaf.

The good news is that healthy olive trees don’t get the scale, sooty mould, and ant infestation to any great extent. More good news is that heavily infested trees are easily fixed.

Normally, one thorough spraying of the entire tree and soil below with a systemic insecticide will be adequate. Nevertheless, to be sure, a second spray about two weeks later may be worthwhile.

Now, if there is no more live scale, there is no more eating, therefore no more ‘honeydew’ excreta, therefore no more sooty mould and ants. Over a period of time the dead sooty mould deposit will peel off the leaves from exposure to the rain, wind and sun. The green leaf surface will be exposed and growth will continue as normal. Treat the tree to an occasional feeding of Seagold fertilizer/mulch and foliar application and some water and watch its health come back.


Scientific Name:  Saissetia oleae

DESCRIPTION OF THE PEST

Black scale adult females are about 0.20 inch (about the size of a match head) in diameter. They are dark brown or black with a prominent H-shaped ridge on the back. Young scales are yellow to orange crawlers and are found on leaves and twigs of the tree. Often, a hand lens is needed to detect the crawlers. Black scale usually has one generation per year in interior valley olive growing districts. In cooler, coastal regions multiple generations occur. Black scale prefers dense unpruned portions of trees. Open, airy trees rarely support populations of black scale.


DAMAGE

Young black scale excretes a sticky, shiny honeydew on leaves of infested trees. At first, affected trees and leaves glisten and then become sooty and black in appearance as sooty mould fungus grows on the honeydew. Infestations reduce vigour and productivity of the tree. Continued feeding causes defoliation that reduces the bloom in the following year. Olive pickers are reluctant to pick olive fruits covered with honeydew and sooty mould.


CULTURAL CONTROL

Pruning to provide open, airy trees discourages black scale infestation and is preferred to chemical treatment.


BIOLOGICAL CONTROL

A number of parasites attack the black scale, the most common are Metaphycus helvolus, Metaphycus bartletti, and Scutellista cyanea. These parasites, combined with proper pruning, provide sufficient control in northern and coastal orchards. In other regions, biological control is often ineffective because the black scale’s development pattern hampers parasite establishment.


ORGANICALLY ACCEPTABLE METHODS

Cultural and biological control and oil sprays. Organic pyrethrum sprays like Pyganic ( Pybo is no longer organically certified).


WHEN TO TREAT

If infestations are resulting in honeydew, treat the crawlers. In interior valleys, delay treatment until hatching is complete and crawlers have left protection of the old female body. Once crawlers have completely emerged, a treatment can effectively be made in summer, fall or winter provided the scales have not developed into the rubber stage (later second instar, which are dark, mottled grey, and leathery, with a clear H-shaped ridge on the back).


TREATMENT

Due to the chemical nature of the treatments, Please check with your agricultural chemical supplier as to the suitability, application and safety precautions of your chosen scale treatment for olives. Some growers have used Summer or Petroleum Oil and Supracide.  Californian olive growers use Oil Emulsions, Diazinon 50WP, Methidathion and Carbaryl. The use of chemicals reduces the microbial population in your soil and can inhibit the uptake of certain nutrients to your trees.  Harmful residues of chemicals can also build up in your soil structure.

A new product Admiral has become available which acts as an insect growth regulator rather than a kill-on-contact pesticide, it has been quite effective and like any treatment of scale; timing is essential.  Ants can be controlled with an Ant Bait suitable for Horticultural use.  We suggest Distance Plus Ant Bait.


References

“Olives – Pest Management Guidelines” (UCPMG Publication 8, 1994). These guidelines cover the major olive problems found in Australia and California and are available for free from their website http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.olives.html . (The information comes from California so all references to places, seasons, months and treatments are Californian). If you have any questions, please contact The Olive Centre, PH: 07 4696 9845, Email: sales@theolivecentre.com.au

Comprehensive Guide to Managing Olive Lace Bug (Froggattia Olivina) | Olive Pests & Diseas

PEST & DISEASES - OLIVE GROWING

Comprehensive Guide to Managing Olive Lace Bug (Froggattia Olivina)

The Olive Lace Bug (Froggattia olivina) is an Australian native sap-sucking insect posing significant threats to olive groves. It specifically targets olive trees (Olea europaea), potentially reducing yields and causing tree death if left unmanaged. Olive lace bug infestation is considered a serious threat to the olive industry in Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria and across Australia.


Olive Lace Bug (Froggattia olivina) infestation on the underside of an olive leaf, showing multiple life stages 

nymphs, adults, and characteristic black excrement spots.

STAGES OF OLIVE LACE BUG 

Adults: Approximately 2-3 mm long, adults are flat, mottled dark brown and cream, featuring large, black-tipped antennae, lace-like transparent wings marked with dark patterns, and red eyes. 

Juveniles (Nymphs): Undergo five moults (instars). Early instars are wingless and vary from light cream or greenish-yellow to pinkish-orange. Later instars are green to greyish-black and very spiky, with wing buds developing.


Later-stage nymphs & transition to adults

  • Mix of partly developed nymphs (still spiny, smaller) and winged young adults.
  • You can see wings starting to develop and more elongated bodies compared to the earlier nymphs.


Nymphs (early instars)

  • Small, spiny, wingless forms.
  • Dark/black body with spines sticking out.
  • No lace wings yet, just stubby appendages.


Adult Olive Lace Bug

  • Distinct lace-like wings (reticulated pattern).
  • Body elongated, brownish in colour.
  • Long antennae visible.

Lifecycle

Female Olive Lace Bugs insert eggs into the tissue on the undersides of leaves, usually along the midribs. Eggs hatch into nymphs, which pass through five moults before reaching adulthood. Olive Lace Bug overwinters as eggs, with hatching typically occurring in early spring (September to October). Adults may also overwinter in protected locations on trees. Depending on climate conditions, there may be one to four generations per year, with a lifecycle ranging from 12-23 days in warm weather to up to 7 weeks in cooler conditions.

Distribution and Spread

Originally native to New South Wales and southern Queensland, olive lace bugs have spread throughout Australia, excluding the Northern Territory. The movement of olive plants and industry activities have facilitated this spread. Juvenile bugs, relatively immobile, cluster on leaf undersides and are easily spread through planting materials, workers, and tools. Adults disperse via short flights or wind

Identification and Monitoring

  • Regularly inspect leaf undersides from early spring. 
  • Early infestations appear as rusty-yellow spots about half the size of a pin-head on the upper surface of leaves, contrasting clearly with the dark green leaf surface. 
  • Severe infestations result in leaf browning, premature drop, and twig dieback.

Damage and Symptoms

Early feeding damage – mottling/yellow stippling on upper leaf surface
Severe lace bug damage – chlorosis with necrotic spotting
Advanced feeding damage – chlorotic mottling and leaf discoloration
Advanced feeding damage chlorotic mottling and leaf discoloration
Severe lace bug damage chlorosis with necrotic spotting
Advanced feeding damage chlorotic mottling and leaf discoloration



Heavy infestations significantly affect tree vigor, delaying flowering and fruiting, reducing yields for up to two seasons, and potentially causing young tree death. Mature trees can also be severely affected, with death observed in extreme cases.

Host Plants

Known hosts include native mock olive (Notelaea longifolia) and cultivated olives (Olea europaea).

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Strategies

  • Regular Monitoring: Check frequently to detect early infestations. 
  • Cultural Practices: Keep trees healthy through adequate fertilisation, irrigation, systematic pruning, and canopy management. Avoid stress caused by poor soil preparation, proximity to large eucalypts, or nutrient deficiencies.
  • Biological Control: Support beneficial predators such as lacewing larvae, ladybird beetles, and predatory mites. Note: Biological controls require a continual supply of the pest to be effective, which can be difficult to achieve in the long term.
  • Spray Controls: Apply proven products known to be effective in the control of OLB.  See more:  Olive Lace Bug Products

Effective Spray Regime

  • Spray soon after initial detection. Severe infestations may require a second treatment 10-14 days later. 
  • Apply thorough coverage on leaf undersides. 
  • Prune regularly to open the canopy, improving spray effectiveness and reducing pest habitat.

Long-term Sustainability

  • Maintain optimal tree health with regular nutrient checks and soil testing
  • Remove dead or unwanted branches. 
  • Educate staff on proper pest identification and management techniques.

By proactively managing olive lace bug, you safeguard the health and productivity of your olive groves, ensuring sustained profitability.

A Strategic Path for Pest Management in Australian Olives

In March 2025, Hort Innovation released the updated Strategic Agrichemical Review Process (SARP) for the Australian olive industry, a comprehensive review designed to ensure sustainable, effective, and trade-compliant pest management for olive growers nationwide.
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