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INFORMATION SHEET - PEST & DISEASES
Occasionally a sap-sucking insect known as Brown or Black Olive Scale will be seen on olive trees. It is rarely a problem if the trees are in good health. We usually only spray our mature trees for scale every two to three years and only then if they need it. However, certain areas of Australia are more prone to the scale.
If your olive tree has black spots on branches or an infestation of black scale, it's crucial to act quickly. Scale on olive trees, including black olive scale, appears as dark bumps that weaken growth. For black scale treatment, use a proven treatment, introduce beneficial insects, and prune for better air circulation. If you're wondering how to get rid of black scale on an olive tree, early detection and prompt action are key to protecting your grove.
The adult females are very easy to recognise on the olive tree stems. They are dome shaped, dark brown to black in colour, and about the size of a match head.
The tiny eggs laid under the female, look like piles of very fine sand. Mainly during the summer, these eggs hatch into tiny, six-legged, cream coloured ‘crawlers’. The crawlers move up the stems and usually settle along the veins of young leaves. At this stage they don’t have the impervious shell of the adult and can usually be killed with one or two applications of white oil about two weeks apart. White oil should be used only as directed on the label by the manufacturers (and by your agricultural department) and never during the hot part of the day. It puts an oil film over the young ‘crawler’ and suffocates it. If applied in the hot part of the day it also stops the leaves from breathing properly and can be detrimental to the tree. The White oil application will also tend to rid the tree of ‘sooty mould’ as discussed soon.
If the crawlers are allowed to live, they will moult after about one month and then migrate to the young stems and twigs of the tree. Here they will mature and lay more eggs and their protective brown shells will be impervious to white oil. Squash the scale between your fingers to see if it is alive. If it is alive, then your fingers will be wet from the juices squeezed out. If it is dead then your fingers will be dry and dusty.
Bad infestations of live mature scale may need spraying with an insecticide such as Supracide. (Important: See note regarding “Treatment”) In Greece, Supracide is the main spray used for most olive problems. Once again, check with your local agricultural chemical supplier and the product label, for directions.
Probably the damage done by the scale itself to the tough olive tree is negligible compared with what happens next.
As the scale feeds, the ‘manure’ they excrete is a sweet, sticky, ‘honeydew’. This excreted sticky liquid can finally cover the leaves of the entire tree. A fungus known as sooty mould feeds on this food and multiplies until the entire tree may be covered with the black sooty mould. This is where the real problem lies.
The leaves are coated with the black deposit, so the sun’s light can’t penetrate the leaves properly. Therefore photosynthesis can’t take place efficiently. Therefore, ‘root producing’ food is not manufactured in the leaf. Therefore roots don’t develop properly. Therefore the poor root system can’t collect enough food and water from the soil to send up to produce more leaves, which in turn will produce more root. Once the vicious cycle begins, a stunted and unhealthy tree with poor crops is the result.
To make the problem worse, sweet ‘honeydew’ on the leaves also attracts large numbers of ants. It appears that as the ants constantly move over the scale, they frighten away the small wasp parasites which in normal cases would keep the scale under control.
Adult scale on the underside of olive leaves
Overturned scale with orange crawlers showing.
An olive branch covered in sooty mould.
Closeup of sooty mould on olive leaf.
The good news is that healthy olive trees don’t get the scale, sooty mould, and ant infestation to any great extent. More good news is that heavily infested trees are easily fixed.
Normally, one thorough spraying of the entire tree and soil below with a systemic insecticide will be adequate. Nevertheless, to be sure, a second spray about two weeks later may be worthwhile.
Now, if there is no more live scale, there is no more eating, therefore no more ‘honeydew’ excreta, therefore no more sooty mould and ants. Over a period of time the dead sooty mould deposit will peel off the leaves from exposure to the rain, wind and sun. The green leaf surface will be exposed and growth will continue as normal. Treat the tree to an occasional feeding of Seagold fertilizer/mulch and foliar application and some water and watch its health come back.
Black scale adult females are about 0.20 inch (about the size of a match head) in diameter. They are dark brown or black with a prominent H-shaped ridge on the back. Young scales are yellow to orange crawlers and are found on leaves and twigs of the tree. Often, a hand lens is needed to detect the crawlers. Black scale usually has one generation per year in interior valley olive growing districts. In cooler, coastal regions multiple generations occur. Black scale prefers dense unpruned portions of trees. Open, airy trees rarely support populations of black scale.
Young black scale excretes a sticky, shiny honeydew on leaves of infested trees. At first, affected trees and leaves glisten and then become sooty and black in appearance as sooty mould fungus grows on the honeydew. Infestations reduce vigour and productivity of the tree. Continued feeding causes defoliation that reduces the bloom in the following year. Olive pickers are reluctant to pick olive fruits covered with honeydew and sooty mould.
Pruning to provide open, airy trees discourages black scale infestation and is preferred to chemical treatment.
A number of parasites attack the black scale, the most common are Metaphycus helvolus, Metaphycus bartletti, and Scutellista cyanea. These parasites, combined with proper pruning, provide sufficient control in northern and coastal orchards. In other regions, biological control is often ineffective because the black scale’s development pattern hampers parasite establishment.
Cultural and biological control and oil sprays. Organic pyrethrum sprays like Pyganic ( Pybo is no longer organically certified).
If infestations are resulting in honeydew, treat the crawlers. In interior valleys, delay treatment until hatching is complete and crawlers have left protection of the old female body. Once crawlers have completely emerged, a treatment can effectively be made in summer, fall or winter provided the scales have not developed into the rubber stage (later second instar, which are dark, mottled grey, and leathery, with a clear H-shaped ridge on the back).
Due to the chemical nature of the treatments, Please check with your agricultural chemical supplier as to the suitability, application and safety precautions of your chosen scale treatment for olives. Some growers have used Summer or Petroleum Oil and Supracide. Californian olive growers use Oil Emulsions, Diazinon 50WP, Methidathion and Carbaryl. The use of chemicals reduces the microbial population in your soil and can inhibit the uptake of certain nutrients to your trees. Harmful residues of chemicals can also build up in your soil structure.
A new product Admiral has become available which acts as an insect growth regulator rather than a kill-on-contact pesticide, it has been quite effective and like any treatment of scale; timing is essential. Ants can be controlled with an Ant Bait suitable for Horticultural use. We suggest Distance Plus Ant Bait.
“Olives – Pest Management Guidelines” (UCPMG Publication 8, 1994). These guidelines cover the major olive problems found in Australia and California and are available for free from their website http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.olives.html . (The information comes from California so all references to places, seasons, months and treatments are Californian). If you have any questions, please contact The Olive Centre, PH: 07 4696 9845, Email: sales@theolivecentre.com.au
PEST & DISEASES - OLIVE GROWING
The Olive Lace Bug (Froggattia olivina) is an Australian native sap-sucking insect posing significant threats to olive groves. It specifically targets olive trees (Olea europaea), potentially reducing yields and causing tree death if left unmanaged. Olive lace bug infestation is considered a serious threat to the olive industry in Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria and across Australia.
Olive Lace Bug (Froggattia olivina) infestation on the underside of an olive leaf, showing multiple life stages
nymphs, adults, and characteristic black excrement spots.
Adults: Approximately 2-3 mm long, adults are flat, mottled dark brown and cream, featuring large, black-tipped antennae, lace-like transparent wings marked with dark patterns, and red eyes.
Juveniles (Nymphs): Undergo five moults (instars). Early instars are wingless and vary from light cream or greenish-yellow to pinkish-orange. Later instars are green to greyish-black and very spiky, with wing buds developing.
Later-stage nymphs & transition to adults
Nymphs (early instars)
Adult Olive Lace Bug
Female Olive Lace Bugs insert eggs into the tissue on the undersides of leaves, usually along the midribs. Eggs hatch into nymphs, which pass through five moults before reaching adulthood. Olive Lace Bug overwinters as eggs, with hatching typically occurring in early spring (September to October). Adults may also overwinter in protected locations on trees. Depending on climate conditions, there may be one to four generations per year, with a lifecycle ranging from 12-23 days in warm weather to up to 7 weeks in cooler conditions.
Originally native to New South Wales and southern Queensland, olive lace bugs have spread throughout Australia, excluding the Northern Territory. The movement of olive plants and industry activities have facilitated this spread. Juvenile bugs, relatively immobile, cluster on leaf undersides and are easily spread through planting materials, workers, and tools. Adults disperse via short flights or wind
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Advanced feeding damage chlorotic mottling and leaf discoloration |
Severe lace bug damage chlorosis with necrotic spotting |
Advanced feeding damage chlorotic mottling and leaf discoloration |
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Heavy infestations significantly affect tree vigor, delaying flowering and fruiting, reducing yields for up to two seasons, and potentially causing young tree death. Mature trees can also be severely affected, with death observed in extreme cases.
Known hosts include native mock olive (Notelaea longifolia) and cultivated olives (Olea europaea).
By proactively managing olive lace bug, you safeguard the health and productivity of your olive groves, ensuring sustained profitability.
Waterlogging is a significant challenge in many Australian olive groves due to the combination of heavy clay soils and episodic intense rainfall. Even brief periods of saturated soil (“wet feet”) can harm olive tree health and predispose trees to root diseases. This article explores why waterlogging is harmful to olive trees, how soil factors like clay pans and sodicity contribute to poor drainage, and the link between waterlogged conditions and root pathogens such as Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia. It also outlines how growers and agronomists can diagnose waterlogging risk both before planting and in established groves, and recommends practical prevention and mitigation strategies (from soil mounding and gypsum application to engineered drainage systems) tailored to Australian conditions.
Olive trees require not just water but also oxygen in the root zone for normal function. When soil becomes waterlogged, the air spaces in soil pores fill with water, depriving roots of oxygen. Without sufficient oxygen, root cells cannot respire properly, leading to energy starvation, root damage, and eventually root death. In prolonged waterlogging, this cascade can kill fine roots and impair the tree’s ability to take up water and nutrients, causing symptoms similar to drought or nutrient deficiency despite the excess water. Above-ground, waterlogged olive trees often show leaf wilting, yellowing (e.g., iron chlorosis or nitrogen deficiency from leached soils), and premature leaf drop as roots asphyxiate. In severe cases, entire branches may die back, and the tree can collapse if critical roots rot.
One physiological disorder in olives related to excess soil moisture is oedema, where high soil moisture causes cells near the stem lenticels to engorge and burst. This results in small corky growths on stems, and indicates that roots have been in saturated, low-oxygen conditions. Roots in such conditions may suffocate (“asphyxiate”) due to oxygen depletion, leaving portions of the root system dead or weakened. These weakened roots no longer function effectively and are prone to invasion by opportunistic soil microbes. In fact, waterlogged olive roots are often observed to become infected by normally minor pathogens or decay organisms like Fusarium, Pythium, and various bacteria that exploit the stressed, oxygen-starved tissue. Thus, beyond the direct damage from lack of oxygen, waterlogging indirectly predisposes olive trees to root rot diseases and decline.
It is important to note that olive trees, while drought-hardy, do not tolerate poor drainage. They evolved in well-drained Mediterranean-type soils and will suffer in waterlogged ground. A common adage is that olive trees can “drown” in waterlogged soil. In fact, extension specialists warn that olive trees are often killed by poor drainage when saturated soil conditions persist in the root zone. Even a few days of soil saturation can begin to injure roots; pot experiments in related tree crops show growth reduction after 3–7 days of waterlogging, and shallow stagnant water in hot weather can kill trees within hours. The faster excess water can drain or recede, the better the chances of the olive tree’s survival and recovery. This underscores why good site drainage is critical for sustainable olive production.
Soil properties largely determine whether an olive grove will drain well or waterlog after rain. Sandy or loam soils tend to have ample macroporosity and usually drain freely, whereas clay-rich soils have tiny pores that hold water and allow it to percolate slowly. In dry climates, a clay soil’s water-holding capacity can be beneficial; however, under high rainfall or poor drainage, the same clay can lead to prolonged saturation. Many Australian olive groves are on heavy duplex or clay soils, and naturally well-structured, free-draining soils with deep profiles are hard to come by. (Indeed, as noted for other orchards, ideal soils are “difficult to find in Australia,” and many orchards succeed on marginal soils only through good soil and water management .) Two common soil constraints in Australia that contribute to waterlogging are clay pans and sodicity.
Clay-panning refers to the presence of a dense, hard layer of clay or compacted soil below the surface that roots and water cannot easily penetrate. In olive groves, clay pans can form due to poor soil preparation or natural soil horizons. For example, working the soil when it is too wet or repeated machinery traffic can smear or compact a subsurface layer, effectively creating a “pan”. Additionally, some duplex soils have a naturally abrupt clay subsoil. This hard subsurface layer prevents olive roots from growing downward and also impedes internal drainage, often causing a perched water table to form above the pan during wet periods. The result is that the tree has a shallow, pancake-like root system trapped above the hardpan. Such trees may initially grow okay in dry times, but they become unthrifty and prone to stress-related dieback because their roots are confined to the shallow layer. During heavy rain, water quickly saturates the shallow root zone (since it cannot drain through the pan), leading to temporary waterlogging around the roots. This induces the oxygen deprivation and root stress discussed earlier, compounding the tree’s problems. Conversely, during dry spells, the shallow-rooted tree cannot access deeper moisture below the pan, so it experiences drought stress more readily. Thus, clay-panning creates a double vulnerability: it causes waterlogging stress in wet conditions and drought stress in dry conditions. Affected trees often show chronic ill health and may even blow over in strong winds due to poor anchorage from the shallow roots. In short, a clay pan under an olive grove is a serious impediment to both drainage and root development.
Sodic soils are another common culprit behind poor drainage. A soil is sodic when it has a high proportion of sodium ions attached to clay particles (often measured as Exchangeable Sodium Percentage > 6%). Sodium causes clay particles to disperse (deflocculate) when wet, which plugs soil pores and collapses soil structure. Many Australian agricultural soils are sodic and dispersive – estimates suggest roughly one-third of Australia’s soils have sodicity issues. In Western Australia, for instance, dispersive sodic clays are widespread in duplex profiles, and when these soils get wet, the dispersed clay clogs the pore spaces, drastically restricting water infiltration and drainage. The result is that water sits on or near the surface, creating waterlogged conditions even with moderate rainfall. In medium to high rainfall regions, sodic duplex soils are especially prone to waterlogging because their subsoils percolate so poorly. Once saturated, they also take a long time to dry out. Sodicity often coexists with other constraints like alkalinity or salinity, further complicating management, but from a drainage perspective, the key issue is dispersed clay = sealed pores = no aeration. You can often identify dispersive sodic clays by a milky cloud when a soil clod is dropped in water (dispersion) or by a hard-setting, crusted surface after rains. In field pits, sodic subsoils may appear mottled and dense, indicating periodic perched water tables. Without intervention, olive trees on such soils will struggle each time rainfall leads to a perched water table around their roots.
Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is a well-known amendment for sodic clay soils. The calcium in gypsum can replace sodium on clay particles, helping the clay to flocculate (clump) rather than disperse. This improves soil structure and opens up pore space for better drainage. For olive groves on sodic clay, incorporating gypsum into the soil can significantly improve permeability and reduce waterlogging. The exact amount should be guided by soil tests (gypsum requirement) – often several tons per hectare or a generous application in each planting hole. One practical guideline given by olive advisors is to mix roughly a quarter of a standard bucket of gypsum into each planting hole or tree site when preparing clay soil. This helps “break up” the clay structure and promote drainage. However, gypsum is not a magic fix for all clay issues; it works best if the poor drainage is due to sodicity or dispersive clays. If a hardpan or heavy texture is the issue (rather than sodium dispersion), mechanical soil loosening and surface drainage may be needed in addition to or instead of gypsum. It’s also worth noting that adding gravel or sand to the planting hole will NOT improve drainage in heavy clay – a common misconception. Small gravel in a clay hole can actually create a pseudo-“pot” with water perched on the interface; it’s ineffective at best and harmful at worst. Improving the overall soil structure and profile drainage (through gypsum, organic matter, and deep ripping) or planting above the natural surface (mounding) are more effective approaches for heavy clay.
In summary, understanding your grove’s soil profile is critical. A bit of investigative work – digging soil pits or augering – can reveal if you have an impermeable clay layer or a sodic dispersive subsoil that could cause waterlogging. Identifying these issues before planting allows you to take corrective action (ripping, gypsum, mounding, etc.) rather than watching trees suffer later. As the old adage goes, “plant your olive trees in $10 holes, not 10¢ holes” – investing in soil preparation pays off enormously in preventing water problems down the track.
Excessively wet soils create an inviting environment for certain root pathogens that plague olive trees. Foremost among these is Phytophthora, a water-mold (oomycete) often responsible for root rot and collar rot in olives. Phytophthora thrives in waterlogged soil – it produces motile spores that swim through free water in soil, infecting roots under wet conditions. Not surprisingly, Phytophthora root and crown rot in olive is consistently associated with poorly drained, wet soils, clay pans, or any situation of prolonged waterlogging. Surveys in Australia have isolated multiple Phytophthora species (such as P. palmivora, P. cinnamomi, P. cryptogea, P. citricola, and others) from olive root or trunk rot cases, almost always in groves with drainage problems. Young trees are especially vulnerable – infections often strike within the first few years if a susceptible young tree is planted into waterlogged ground. Infected trees show telltale symptoms: reduced vigor and stunted growth, sparse canopies, dieback of shoot tips, yellowing leaves that drop prematurely, and darkly discolored or rotting roots. Sometimes, a reddish or cinnamon-brown staining under the bark near the crown is seen, and gummosis or cankers may appear at the base. If the disease progresses, parts of the canopy wilt as the decayed roots can no longer supply water, and trees can collapse suddenly during periods of stress (e.g., a hot, dry spell following the wet conditions). Phytophthora root rot can kill trees outright or set them into a decline over several years. An olive grower from NSW DPI noted that Phytophthora root rot is often observed when “excessively wet soils, clay-panning or poor drainage” occur in the grove. This pathogen was particularly problematic in Eastern Australian groves during unusually wet summers; for instance, a spike in olive root rot was reported on the east coast (NSW) following very high summer rainfall in 2008. Australian olive growers must therefore regard Phytophthora as a primary hazard wherever water may accumulate around roots.
Another pathogen of concern is Rhizoctonia, a fungus that causes root rots and “damping off” in many crops. Rhizoctonia in olives has been found in several Australian states, typically affecting young trees or nursery stock. Infected olive roots develop brown lesions, the outer bark may slough off, and under a microscope, you might see the characteristic brown resting structures (sclerotia) on the roots. Above-ground, Rhizoctonia infection can mimic drought stress – leaves get dry tips, yellow, defoliate, and the plant can even die back as if it were water-starved. Interestingly, Rhizoctonia root rot in olive is not as strictly tied to waterlogging as Phytophthora is. Reports indicate Rhizoctonia outbreaks can occur under both dry and moist soil conditions. This fungus often lives in soil and plant debris and can persist through adverse conditions by forming resilient sclerotia. Rather than requiring flooded soil, Rhizoctonia tends to attack when plants are weakened or roots are growing poorly. For example, if waterlogging has damaged roots, Rhizoctonia can invade the dying tissue; conversely, if the soil is very dry and the roots are stressed, Rhizoctonia might also take advantage. In practice, severe Rhizoctonia root rot has mainly been noted in young or potted olive plants. Healthy mature trees are usually less susceptible, presumably because they have more extensive roots and stored resources. Nonetheless, the presence of Rhizoctonia in many Australian olive groves (NSW, SA, QLD, VIC have all reported it ) means that any condition that stresses roots – including waterlogging – could open the door to this pathogen. A waterlogged olive may later show Rhizoctonia root rot symptoms once the soil dries, as the fungus colonizes the damaged root cortex. Thus, water management helps indirectly to prevent Rhizoctonia by keeping roots robust.
In addition to Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia, waterlogged conditions can favor other root diseases: - Pythium species (another water mold) can cause feeder root rot in saturated soils, especially in young trees or nurseries, though it is generally a weaker pathogen than Phytophthora. It often acts as an opportunist on stressed roots. - Fusarium fungi have been isolated from olive roots with rot, showing reddish-brown discoloration and poor growth in young plants. Like Rhizoctonia, Fusarium can persist as hardy spores in soil and tends to strike when plants are predisposed by stress (e.g., excess moisture followed by dryness). - Verticillium dahliae, which causes Verticillium wilt, is a serious olive pathogen, particularly in soils with a history of susceptible crops (e.g., cotton, tomatoes). Verticillium is not directly caused by waterlogging (it doesn’t require saturated soil), but wet, cool conditions can favor its infection cycle. There is some evidence that water stress (either too much or too little) can exacerbate Verticillium symptoms.
Finally, secondary wood decay fungi and bacteria can exploit olive trees after waterlogging injury. Waterlogged roots and lower trunks may develop cracks or cankers (from swelling and shrinkage or bacterial infections), and fungi such as Botryosphaeria or Armillaria (if present in soil) can invade. Australian olive experts have noted that many trunk and branch canker diseases become problematic when trees are stressed or wounded, and waterlogging is one stress that can precipitate those infections. A clear management recommendation from plant pathologists is to “ensure soil drains freely to avoid waterlogging and subsequent root pathogen infections.”. Good drainage is thus a frontline defense against not only Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia, but a whole suite of diseases that take advantage of trees in waterlogged, weakened conditions.
Identifying areas at risk of waterlogging – and detecting early signs of poor drainage – can save growers much trouble. Assessment should be done both before planting a new grove and as an ongoing practice in established orchards (especially after extreme weather). Here are some diagnostic approaches:
Before Planting – Site and Soil Evaluation: Start with a thorough look at the land and soil where you intend to plant olives. Low-lying paddocks, valley bottoms, or sites near river flats are obvious risk zones for flooding and waterlogging. If a site has a history of ponding water after rain or you notice water-loving weeds/reeds in parts of it, take caution. Beyond surface clues, a soil profile examination is extremely useful. Dig soil pits or use a backhoe to create a trench about 1 m deep in representative spots. Inspect the soil layers: is there a distinct, dense clay subsoil? Is there a bleached or mottled layer indicating past waterlogging (gray or orange mottles often mean seasonal saturation)? Look for any “wet layer” or seepage line in the pit – sometimes you’ll find a saturated zone or even seeping water at a certain depth, which indicates a perched water table and poor drainage. Also note any hardpan or compaction layer (for example, from prior farming) – you might see old root growth flattened out horizontally along a hard layer, signaling roots couldn’t penetrate. If you find a compacted or smeared layer in your pit, record how deep it is; that guides how deep you’ll need to break it up (e.g., via ripping).
A simple in-field drainage test can be very illuminating as well. One recommended method is the overnight hole drainage test: dig a hole about 30–40 cm deep and fill it with water. Let it sit overnight. If the water has not fully drained away by the next morning, that soil has poor infiltration and is likely to cause waterlogging issues. Ideally, a well-draining soil will absorb that water within a few hours. If it’s still there after 8–12 hours, you have a problem. Performing this test in a few locations (especially in any suspected heavy soil patches) before planting will tell you where drainage amendments or mounding are necessary.
It’s also wise to test the soil for sodicity and texture through a lab. A soil analysis can reveal a high exchangeable sodium percentage (sodic soil), which would warn you that dispersion and drainage issues are likely unless ameliorated. If laboratory tests or field dispersion tests (like an Emerson crumb test) show the soil is dispersive, plan on applying gypsum or other soil conditioners before planting. Additionally, understanding the soil’s clay content and type (e.g., reactive clays vs. sandy loams) helps predict how prone it is to waterlogging.
After Planting – Monitoring and Early Warning: Once the olive grove is established, growers should remain vigilant, especially in seasons of abnormal rainfall. One straightforward practice is to observe the orchard after heavy rains. Take note of any sections where water pools or drains slowly. Puddles that remain for more than a day, or wheel tracks that stay boggy, are red flags. You might see a greasy shine or algae on soil that stays wet too long. If only small patches are waterlogged, it could be due to a local pan or a low spot – mark those for remedial action (drainage or replanting on a mound, discussed later). Also, inspect the trees themselves for early stress signals. In winter or early spring, when rains are frequent, watch for any trees that develop an overall light yellow hue or begin dropping leaves out of season – this can indicate their roots are struggling from a lack of oxygen or root rot infection in saturated soil. Compare growth and yield: sections of the grove that lag could be suffering from suboptimal root conditions underground (often wet feet or poor soil structure).
A useful technique is to use an auger or spade to check the soil moisture around roots after rain. Dig down near the root zone of a few trees: is the soil waterlogged (gleysolic grey color or foul smell indicating anaerobic conditions)? Does the hole fill with water from below, suggesting a high water table? Healthy, drained soil will feel moist but friable, whereas waterlogged soil may be soupy or have a sewage-like odor (from anaerobic bacteria). Another diagnostic sign in heavy clay soils is a surface crust or hard pan that forms after waterlogging and drying – this can indicate dispersive clay. If you observe a surface crust, you may need to break it up (light cultivation) to allow oxygen back in; its presence also suggests you should address the underlying soil structure for the longer term.
For diagnosing root disease issues related to waterlogging, consider testing suspect trees. If a tree declines after wet conditions, you might have Phytophthora or other root rot at work. Commercial lab services (such as Grow Help Australia or state department diagnostic labs) are available to test soil or root samples for pathogens. For example, SARDI (South Australian Research and Development Institute) offers a DNA-based soil testing service (like Predicta B for broadacre, and similar for horticulture) to detect Phytophthora and other soil-borne diseases before or after planting. These tests can confirm if Phytophthora spores are present in your soil or if a dying tree’s roots have Phytophthora or Rhizoctonia. While such testing incurs a cost, it can be invaluable in pinpointing the cause of decline and informing management (e.g., whether to treat with fungicides or improve drainage, or both).
In summary, before planting, dig and percolation-test your soils to identify drainage issues and rectify them early. After planting, keep an eye (and shovel) on how water moves and dissipates in your grove. Early intervention – whether it’s digging a quick trench to drain water or treating a root rot outbreak – can prevent minor waterlogging from snowballing into major tree losses.
An olive tree in a low-lying part of the grove showing signs of waterlogging: the soil is saturated and puddled around the trunk, and the tree exhibits leaf drop and dieback. Such areas should be identified and addressed proactively (through drainage or mounding) to avoid root disease development.
Preventing waterlogging in olive groves starts with good site selection and preparation, and continues with strategic management and engineering solutions in the field. Below are key methods – both traditional cultural practices and engineered interventions – to keep olive roots high and dry (or at least prevent them from drowning). Emphasis is placed on techniques proven under Australian conditions, where heavy clay subsoils and intense rain events are common.
1. Site Selection and Layout: If you have the luxury of choosing or modifying the planting site, favor locations and layouts that facilitate drainage. Avoid planting olives in natural drainage sumps or flood-prone flats. A gentle slope (even just a 1-2% gradient) is beneficial to shed surface water. If the grove site is flat, you may need to create a slope by laser-leveling or at least plan surface water runoff routes. As a rule, ensure there is somewhere for excess water to go – a lower corner, a dam, a runoff channel – before planting trees. Also consider row orientation and planting density: rows oriented downhill can sometimes act as channels for water flow, whereas contour planting (following the land’s contours) can slow runoff – the best approach depends on your topography and should aim to avoid water accumulating around trunks.
2. Deep Tillage (Subsoil Ripping): For soils with a suspected hardpan or dense clay layer, performing deep ripping or subsoil plowing before planting is highly recommended. Running a stout ripper (with tines that penetrate 50–80 cm deep) through the planting lines will break up compacted layers and fracture the subsoil, improving vertical drainage and root access. Olive experts note that if you have at least ~1.2 m of uninterrupted, well-structured soil profile, you might not need deep ripping. But if a restrictive layer is present at, say, 30–60 cm, ripping is vital. Ripping is often done in two passes (in a cross-hatch pattern) and ideally when the soil is moist (but not wet plastic) to achieve shattering of the pan. In severe cases of textural contrast (e.g., a sharp clay layer), some growers use a slip plow or mouldboard to invert or mix soil layers, but this is a more intensive operation. Deep tillage encourages olive roots to explore deeper and allows rainwater to penetrate the soil profile rather than pooling on top. It must be done well before planting (the season prior) so the soil can settle and rainfall can re-form some structure in the profile. Note that if the subsoil is sodic, ripping alone is not enough – it should be combined with gypsum incorporation so that the shattered clay does not simply disperse and re-seal.
3. Raised Beds and Mounding: One of the most effective strategies for waterlogging-prone sites is to raise the olive tree root zone above the natural ground level. This can be done either by establishing raised beds across entire orchard rows or by mounding individual tree planting sites. In Australia, raised beds have been widely used in other horticulture and even broadacre cropping to manage waterlogging, and the same concept applies to olive groves. A raised bed can be created by heaping and berming soil along the row, typically using a grader blade or bed-forming implement. For individual mounds, soil can be scraped from the inter-row area and piled where the tree will go, or additional soil (preferably a loamy soil) can be imported and added. The mound should be at least 45–80 cm high and about 0.9–1 m in diameter to be effective. In practice, many olive growers aim for roughly knee-height mounds. This elevation ensures that even if water pools in the paddock, the tree’s crown and upper root system are above the saturation zone. It also encourages lateral roots to grow outward into better-aerated topsoil. In South Australia and Western Australia, some growers have reported success planting on long raised berms, especially on duplex clay soils – these berms function like narrow ridges that shed water to the furrows between rows. Raised beds significantly reduce the incidence of waterlogging by allowing excess rain to run off the bed and by improving soil aeration in the root zone. Keep in mind that raised beds can dry out faster in summer, so irrigation might need adjustment (drip lines on top of the mound, etc.). The cost of mounding (earthworks) is an investment, but it is far cheaper than losing trees or yielding to waterlogging. If one cannot mound the entire block, at least mound the low or heavy-soil sections, or mound individual high-value trees.
4. Soil Amendments – Gypsum and Organic Matter: As mentioned, gypsum is the go-to amendment for dispersive (sodic) clays. Applying gypsum in the planting row or even broadcasting and incorporating it into the topsoil can improve soil structure over time. For new plantings, incorporate gypsum into the soil during ground preparation (rates might be in the order of 2.5–5 t/ha or more, depending on soil tests). In an existing grove, surface-applied gypsum (e.g., a band along the tree row) will eventually leach into the soil and help flocculate clay, though incorporation is better if feasible. Gypsum takes effect over months to years, so be patient and reapply as needed based on soil test ESP levels. Alongside gypsum, building soil organic matter can also enhance drainage. Adding compost or manure in moderate quantities can improve soil aggregation and porosity, especially in lighter soils. However, in very heavy clays, too much organic matter at once can actually hold more moisture; the key is a balanced approach. Cover crops or mulches can also improve soil structure over the long term and help create macropores (via root channels and earthworm activity) that assist drainage. Just be cautious that any added organics are well rotted – raw manures can sometimes temporarily worsen structure or tie up nitrogen.
5. Surface Drainage Systems: Engineering the surface water flow can prevent water from ever accumulating around olive roots. A common method is installing spoon drains or diversion banks to channel runoff away. Spoon drains are shallow, broad depressions dug across a slope that act like artificial creeks; they intercept overland flow (or excess rain from a flat) and convey it to a safe outlet (such as a dam or a natural waterway). They can be constructed with a grader and should have a gentle grade to encourage flow. It’s important to place such drains above the orchard or in inter-row areas to catch water before it settles around trees. In flatter groves, even a small ditch (30–40 cm deep) along one side of the block can help drain water out. Ensure any surface drain is kept clear of silt and trash, especially after storms. Also, avoid discharging the water onto a neighbor’s land without permission – route it to a designated drainage line. In orchards that are already planted, growers have dug emergency drains when facing waterlogging; for example, running a single furrow with a tractor through a waterlogged aisle to give water an escape route. While this isn’t ideal for root disturbance, it can save trees in a pinch by getting water off the orchard quickly. Remember, the faster water drains after heavy rainfall, the better the chance your trees won’t suffer.
6. Subsurface Drainage Systems: For chronic waterlogging in high-value groves, a subsurface drainage system may be warranted. This typically involves burying perforated or slotted PVC “agricultural pipes” (aka tile drains or ag lines) below the root zone to lower the water table. A common design is to trench in slotted pipes at a depth of 60–100 cm, in parallel lines across the orchard, with a slight gradient to lead water out to a sump or outlet. These trenches are backfilled with gravel or coarse sand around the pipe to act as a filter and encourage water entry. The spacing of drains depends on soil permeability – heavy clays might need drains every 10–20 m, whereas loams can have wider spacing. Subsurface drainage is best designed by an engineer or experienced drainage contractor because the specifics (depth, spacing, outlet, gradient) are critical for it to function properly. When done correctly, subsurface drains can effectively draw excess water out of the root zone before it causes harm. This solution is more common in larger orchards or where waterlogging is severe and persistent (e.g., an olive grove on a flat clay plain). It is an expensive up-front solution, but it can make an otherwise unviable site productive. Some Australian growers have combined subsurface drains with raised beds – the raised bed keeps the surface roots dry, while the buried pipes lower the overall water table. If you install subsurface drains, also install observation points (e.g., riser pipes or inspection pits) to monitor flow and allow maintenance (flushing out silt, etc.) in the future.
7. Water Management and Irrigation Practices: Growers should also adjust their irrigation strategy to the soil’s capacity. Over-irrigation can mimic waterlogging even on well-drained sites. In heavy soils or areas prone to saturation, use shorter, more frequent irrigation rather than deep, infrequent soaking. Ensure drip emitters are not leaking excessively in one spot. It’s also prudent to pause irrigation if rain is forecast or after heavy rain – monitor soil moisture and only resume when the profile has drained sufficiently. Smart irrigation controllers or soil moisture sensors (tensiometers, capacitance probes) can aid in preventing inadvertent waterlogging from irrigation by giving real-time feedback on soil saturation. Essentially, match your irrigation volume to the soil infiltration rate; any water applied beyond what the soil can absorb will stagnate and harm roots. During cooler months or rainy periods, many Australian olive groves need little to no irrigation – trees can often sustain on stored subsoil moisture until conditions dry out.
8. Remedial Actions for At-Risk Trees: Despite best efforts, you may still find pockets of waterlogging in an established grove – for example, an unexpected seep area or a spot you thought would drain that did not. In such cases, it’s important to take corrective action quickly. For individual trees suffering in a boggy spot, one option (labor-intensive but effective) is to dig out and replant the tree on a mound. Carefully remove the tree during winter dormancy or a cool period, lifting as much of the root ball as possible (or take cuttings if the tree is small and root rot is advanced). Then improve that site – scoop out a wide planting hole, mix in gypsum if clay, and backfill to create a mound 0.5 m or more high – and replant the olive on this raised position. This essentially “rescues” the tree from the swampy ground. It’s best done before the tree is too weakened. Afterwards, monitor it closely for recovery and consider protective fungicide (e.g., phosphite) treatments for root rot.
For larger sections of the grove that prove wet, you might implement a new drain or trench as discussed, even if it means sacrificing a row middle for drainage. Cutting a shallow drain along a contour above the wet area can intercept water, or a deeper trench through the wet area can drain it. These fixes can be done after harvest when equipment access is easier and minor root damage from trenching will be less impactful. Always restore ground cover or mulch over disturbed soil to prevent erosion after digging drains.
9. Disease Management in Waterlogged Situations: If trees have experienced waterlogging, there is a risk of root disease taking hold. As a preventive measure in waterlogged-prone orchards, some Australian agronomists recommend applying phosphorus acid (phosphonate) routinely. Phosphorous acid is a low-toxicity fungicide that is very effective at suppressing Phytophthora in many crops. It can be applied as a foliar spray (commonly at 2.5–10 mL/L depending on product strength) every 6–8 weeks during the wet season. The chemical boosts the tree’s own defenses and can halt incipient Phytophthora infections. In olives, phosphonate is often applied to the leaves (or even as a trunk spray or injection if the canopy is sparse) and allowed to translocate to the roots. This is a preventative approach – it’s most effective when applied before or at the onset of waterlogging conditions, not after a root rot is advanced. If your grove is in a region with warm, wet summers (e.g., Northern NSW or Queensland) where Phytophthora is known to be present, a proactive phosphonate program on young trees can be a lifesaver. Additionally, ensure good sanitation: avoid moving soil from wet infected areas to clean areas (Phytophthora spreads via water and soil), and quarantine any new nursery stock (check their roots for health).
Should Rhizoctonia or other fungi be suspected after waterlogging, there are no specific curative sprays, but improving conditions for the tree to recover is key. This may involve fertilizing the foliage (since compromised roots can’t uptake nutrients well). Foliar feeds of calcium and boron, for instance, have been observed to help olives push new healthy root and shoot growth after water stress. A complete foliar nutrient spray (including NPK and trace elements) can support the tree while its roots regenerate. Prune out any dead or dying branches caused by dieback, but avoid heavy pruning of live tissue – the tree needs as much healthy leaf area as possible to recover. Instead, only remove the clearly necrotic wood and allow any new suckers from the base to grow (they help rebuild the canopy and root system balance). Once the tree shows recovery and the soil has been fixed (drained or mounded), it should regain strength over subsequent seasons.
10. Regional Considerations: Across Australia, the strategies above should be tailored to the local climate. In Mediterranean-climate regions (e.g. South Australia, WA), the highest waterlogging risk is in winter and early spring when rains are frequent – here, focus on winter drainage and perhaps covercropping in summer to maintain structure. In summer-rainfall areas (e.g., eastern Australia), intense downpours can cause flash waterlogging even in midsummer; ensure drainage is ready year-round and be cautious with summer irrigation. In some parts of NSW and QLD, heavy clay soils underlay the valleys – these are classic cases for raised bed planting plus prophylactic phosphonate sprays in the storm season. Contrastingly, in parts of Victoria or southern NSW, waterlogging might coincide with cooler weather, which slows tree metabolism; there, one must be wary of diseases like Verticillium, too, which can co-occur in cool wet soils. No matter the region, always aim to “get the water off the paddock, or get the tree above the water.” A combination of the discussed methods often yields the best result – for instance, ripping + mounding + surface drains + gypsum application might all be employed on a particularly challenging block of sodic clay.
In conclusion, managing waterlogging in olive groves requires diligence in planning, observation, and intervention. The effort is justified by the potentially severe consequences of inaction: tree losses, disease outbreaks, and reduced yields. By understanding your soil’s quirks (clay pans, sodicity) and using the preventive tools available (from mounds and drains to chemical treatments for root rot), you can successfully grow olives on difficult soils and in wet climates. As Australian experience has shown, even marginal clay lands can produce healthy olive crops if waterlogging is kept at bay through smart agronomy. The key takeaways for growers are: prioritize drainage in every decision, regularly inspect and maintain soil structure, and act quickly at the first sign of water stress or root disease. With these practices, olive trees can thrive in regions of heavy rain and clay, yielding bountifully without getting their feet too wet.
