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Bypass or Parrot-beak secateurs: as the name suggests the blade bypasses the counter blade to make a cut. (i.e. the action is similar to scissors). ?One blade is convex and the other concave. The main reason you would use the bypass to cut smaller branches and dense foliage as the blades are thinner and allow easier manoeuvrability e.g. with vines or roses.
Anvil secateurs: Have an upper blade which pushes down to an anvil counter blade (i.e. they close to a flat surface). The blade is bigger than the Bypass and the action tends to slice rather than squash the branch. Anvil secateurs will give a clean cut. Anvil is used for softer wooded trees and plants like Cherries, Pear and Olives.
Double-Blade secateurs: Have two identical blades if you compare to the anvil or bypass type? These secateurs make a cut by slicing the branch from two sides of the stem. Since you are cutting equally from both sides you tend to finish the cut in the middle of the stem where a lip is present. The reason for the lip at the end of the stem is to create angles each side and ensure that no water can settle on the cut to help the wound heal without the added risk of infection.
When you use secateurs on a regular basis you need to take into account the clunk/jarring factor to reduce the impact for RSI (Repetitive Strain Injury) purposes of each of these models:
The clunk or jar factor is what you feel at the end of a cut. A bypass secateurs gives the biggest clunk and you find these types of secateurs are not the choice of Arborists. Whereas Double-blade type secateurs have some jarring and the Anvil has no jarring at all and is usually the choice for Arborists.
What else to look for when choosing the right secateurs?
Everyone has a different sized-hands and secateurs are made in a facade of different sizes and shapes. Feel the secateurs in your hands open and close them like you are making a cut and feel if your hand can extend the reach of the handles when open. ?Rolling handles may be an option or not. The rolling handle model are usually more expensive and may not be better for the fit of your hand.
Everyone has a different sized-hands and secateurs are made in a facade of different sizes and shapes. ?Feel the secateurs in your hands open and close them like you are making a cut and feel if your hand can extend the reach of the handles when open. ?Rolling handles may be an option or not. The rolling handle model are usually more expensive and may not be better for the fit of your hand.
Here are some other facts about secateurs:
The next time you look for secateurs, take into consideration the application and frequency of use. ?Choose what is comfortable and practical for your application!
More about:
The teeth on Silky Saws are like super sharp little chisels that are dragged across the surface of a branch with each chisel taking a bite out of the wood it is cutting. Using Japanese ingenuity, saws cut on the pull stroke and to stop the saws binding they developed a process that is called among other things, taper or hollow grinding. What they did was get a big round grinding stone and ground their saw blades so the thickest part of the blade was at the teeth and it tapered into the middle of the blade and then thickened slightly to the top of the blade. This meant that the blade was thickest at the teeth, less thick at the top and thinnest in the middle. The grinding technique produced a saw that allowed a thinner saw to cut through a branch quicker, without binding.
When you cut green wood with a Silky Saw or pruning saws and Secateurs, you are going to get sap on the blade area. The more you cut, the more sap you are going to get a build-up of and it's most noticeable in the middle (from top to bottom) of the saw blade. Remember how the middle of the blade is the thinnest part of the blade. It is easier for the sap to stick there as it isn?t being rubbed against as much. So that night, you put the saw back in the scabbard and pick it up again the next day and do some more pruning and shaping of trees and bushes. Overnight the sap dries and hardens and is easier for the sap to stick to the blade again the next day... so the process continues. Soon you think your saws are getting blunt because it is much harder than when you first purchased to cut through a branch. With all the sap build-up, you are trying to pull a blade through a cut that is now thinner than the blade with its sap build-up.
The solution is 2 minutes of TLC for your saw blades at the end of the day with the Saw Cleaner solution. This anti-bacterial organic oil spray based on Tea Tree Oil is the solution for removing sap from Saw blades and sticky substances. We use it, we swear by it and we have used it to make sap covered Saws and Secateurs look and cut like new again.? ?View before and after images above.
Sap build up is often mistaken for blade dullness, but it is actually the main cause of reduced cutting performance in pruning saws and secateurs. Because the blade is thinnest in the middle, sap easily accumulates, hardens, and increases friction, making cutting more difficult while also increasing the risk of rust and corrosion.
Using the Saw Cleaner – Tea Tree Environmental Solution 100 mL Spray helps remove sap and resin, reduce bacteria and mould, and protect blades from rust. Regular cleaning with this natural tea tree–based formula supports tool hygiene, maintains sharp cutting performance, and extends the life of pruning equipment.