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| Bulk Discounts Prices | |
| Quantity | Price |
| 1 | $157.50 |
| 5 | $147.00 |
Technical Specifications
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Capacity | 5 Litres |
| Material | AISI 304 Stainless Steel |
| Lid Type | Screw-Top Lid |
| Tap Type | Push-Button Tap |
| Width | 230 mm |
| Length | 130 mm |
| Height | 200 mm |
| Weight | 1.80 kg |
*All measurements are approximate.
In a Pickle!
The following pickling recipes article has been adapted from
Australian Olive Grower Issue 4, November 1997
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Chapters
Lost Arts
Pickling in Yesteryear
Favourite Greek pickling method
Pickling in Peasant Style
Ash and olives
______________________________________
No doubt, she then took some home to her humble abode and, to her even greater delight, was able to duplicate the process. People still cure olives today in some Greek islands by dipping a basket of olives daily into the sea for 10 days. When the inner flesh is dark brown, the olives are ready to eat.
To begin the brine processing, place your clean olives in cold water and change the water each day for 10 days. (I use large, plastic, covered buckets from a local restaurant supply.) Weight the olives down with a plate so they all stay submerged. No need to seal at this point.
This will start leaching the bitter glucosides out of the olives. At the end of the ten day period you can make a more permanent brine solution in which to continue the process. Add one cup of noniodized salt to each gallon of water. Use enough of this brine to cover the olives.
Change this solution weekly for four weeks, transfer the olives to a weaker brine solution until you are ready to use them. The solution should contain one half cup of noniodized salt to each gallon (4.2 litres) of water.
Just how long it will take for your olives to become edible I cannot say. Mine seem to take about two or three months to develop a rich, olivey flavour. The best piece of equipment you have for assessing when the olives are done is located between your nose and your chin. It doesn't cost much to maintain (outside of your regular dental checkups), so use it!
Store your olives in the weaker brine in a fairly cool, dark place and keep them covered. A scum may form on the top of the olives, but according to my mother's Italian neighbours, this simply adds to the flavour of the olives! (One of my Italian sources swears that this is the "culture which consumes the bitterness of the olives.") Toss out the scum and use any olives that look unspoiled. (A squishy olive is a spoiled olive.)
Editor's note: Using the pickling method outlined above, and the complete absence of salt during the initial ten day rinsing period, bacteria can form and turn the fruit soft and rotten during the following weeks. If this happens, you will lose your entire production. Experiment with it, use about 5% salt solution for one batch and no salt for another batch. To care for the environment, there are some commercial methods that do not use the daily rinse method.
Pickling in Yesteryear Back to top
The following five recipes come from the Beaumont Nursery Catalogue of many years ago. The Brock family who operated the nursery have since moved on, but Beaumont House, which was taken over by the National Trust in about 1976, is very much a landmark today. Beaumont House was Sir Samuel Davenport's original home in the 1850's.
The nursery catalogue claims that the first olive trees imported to Australia were shipped by Sir Samuel Davenport and planted on his Beaumont property in 1844. Our thanks go to the Brock family for the years they spent in developing the Australian Olive Industry.
"It is a very simple matter to pickle olives and all you need is a small wooden vat or barrel or an earthenware jar with an open top similar to a glazed bread crock, and if you are interested the following recipes may be of some assistance to you:
Referring to all the following recipes, it is essential that when pickling, the olives must not be bruised in any way. Fruit must be picked just as the olive is turning colour from green, that is when it shows a small patch of pinkish purple and is commencing to soften. Always cover the containers to exclude all light.
No. 1 Recipe. Place olives carefully in container, cover the olives with a caustic soda solution (3 oz. of caustic soda to 1 gallon rainwater) for 40 to 48 hours (no longer), using a piece of flat, clean wood to keep them below the surface of the liquid. At the end of 48 hours pour off the caustic liquid, then cover with fresh rainwater and continue the renewing and pouring off of the water twice daily, night and morning, for at least one week (until all caustic soda is eliminated.) Do not worry if olive is bitter to taste.
Next, mix well 1/2 lb. of salt to one gallon of rainwater and cover the olives in this solution for a week, then drain. You then mix 3/4 lb. salt (12 oz.) to each gallon of rainwater, cover for another week and drain again. You then place the olives into jars. A-Gee jars or similar. Place jars in tub of very hot water up to their necks and fill with a boiling brine solution (3/4 lb/ salt to one gallon of water) to overflowing and seal immediately. As the jars cool the rubber rings will seal the tin inner lids perfectly and the olives will keep indefinitely.
Recipe No 2. Place olives in vat and cover with a caustic soda solution (1 lb. caustic soda to five gallons of rainwater). Allow to stand for 18 to 20 hours, then pour off the dark brown liquid. Keep washing in rainwater until the water comes away clear, changing the water each day. This will take seven or eight days. Then bottle the olives in A-Gee jars or other suitable containers. Stand jars in tub of very hot water up to their necks and then pour boiling brine solution over olives to overflowing and seal immediately. This brine to be one cup of salt to 12 cups of rainwater.
Recipe No 3. (for green olives). Dissolve 1 lb. caustic soda in five gallons of water. Pour over the olives and let stand for 15 hours. Drain this off and cover the olives with clear, cold water, and when this becomes discoloured pour it off. Continue in this way until water remains clear. Pack the olives into jars and cover then with a strong solution of salt & water (one part of salt to five parts of water), which has previously been boiled for 10 minutes, then seal.
Recipe No 4. (green olives). 3 ozs. of caustic soda dissolved in one gallon cold rainwater (glass or stone or wood containers) in sufficient quantity to cover the olives to be processed.
Important: Cover to exclude all light. Cover olives with this solution, according to size of olives, 20 to 24 hours. Then wash with running water for at least 3 days (exclude all light) and drain then. Add a prepared solution of 1/2 lb salt per gallon of water and change every day for at least 12 days. Then drain, bottle and cover with a fixing solution of brine, 3/4 lb salt to one gallon of water (use coarse salt. "from the butchers".)
Recipe No 5. (Our experience of this recipe is that the olives do not keep more than a few months). Place olives in container of wood, glass or earthenware and cover with a solution of caustic soda, 5 dessert spoons to one gallon of water, for 48 hours. Then pour off and keep washing in pure cold rainwater until water is clear and natural (change water each day). Then place in jar and cover with brine solution (1 1/2 lb. salt to each gallon of water) and seal. Ready in seven days. When the supplier of this recipe was told his recipe did not keep too long he replied: "If you like pickled olives there will be no need for them to keep!"
Favourite Greek Pickling Method Back to top
There are many different ways to prepare olives and the following old Greek recipe is one of the simplest. Commercial pickling processes generally use caustic soda, food acids and salt. This old fashioned recipe uses salt only.
Olives can be pickled when green or black. A black olive is simply a ripe olive. Generally the green olives are used for pickling. Some black olives are pickled and pressed for oil.
In about February - March, some of the fruit begins to turn from plain green to purplish black. When some of the olives begin to change towards black, it will be fairly safe to pick the green olives for pickling.
If the tree is large, place cloth sheets on the ground and strip the fruit from the tree with your hands or with a rake with suitably spaced prongs. Collect the fruit from the sheet, remove odd stems and leaves and rinse olives in clean water in a bucket.
Place the olives on a clean stone surface or cutting board and bruise them with another stone or hammer. Alternatively prick several times with a fork, or make three slits in the skin of each olive with a small serrated knife while turning the fruit between the thumb and index finger. This bruising, pricking or cutting will allow the water and salt to penetrate the fruit thereby drawing out the bitterness and also preserving it. This will also do away with the need to use a caustic soda solution as used in commercial processing of olives.
Toss them immediately into a bucket of clean water in which one half cup of coarse or cooking salt has been dissolved into every ten cups of water. A clean plate can be placed on top to keep the olives submerged. All olives must be under the liquid. Pour the liquid away each day and replace with fresh salt water. Repeat this washing process for about 12 days for green olives and about 10 days for black (ripe) olives. The best test is to bite an olive. When the bitterness has nearly gone, the olives are ready for the final salting. As you can see, this simple recipe involves the disposal of salty rinse water into the environment. If you decide to commercially pickle olives, there are other recipes that require a longer pickling time but do not result in salty waste water.
Pour off and measure the last lot of water so you will know the volume of salt brine that will be required. Measure that quantity of fresh, warm water into a pan and dissolve the salt, this time at the rate of 1 cup of salt to 10 cups of water. Bring the salt water preserving mixture to the boil and allow tocool. Place olives in bottles and then pour the salt water brine over them until the fruit is completely submerged. Top up the bottles with up to one centimetre of olive oil to stop air getting to the fruit and seal the lids on. No further preparation is required and the bottled olives will store for at least 12 months in a cool cupboard.
When you are ready eat your olives, pour out the strong preserving solution and fill the jar with clean, cool water. Leave in the refrigerator for 24 hours and taste them. If they are still too salty for your liking, then refill the bottle with a fresh lot of water and return to the refrigerator for a further 24 hours. (The plain water leaches some of the salt back out of the olives). At this stage you can also add any or all of the following flavourings: Grated garlic, basil, oregano, chopped onion, red capsicum, lemon juice and lemon pieces. Especially popular is a combination of garlic, basil and lemon juice.
Now sit back and enjoy the unique flavour of your own olives. You will probably never want to buy chemicalized commercial olives again.
WARNING!
Don't give any of your olives to your olive eating friends to taste or you might finish up with more friends than olives! Tell them to buy themselves a tree - or better still, set up a whole olive grove.
Pickling Peasant Style by Lynne Chatterton, Umbria - Italy
(Extracted from Australian Olive Grower, Issue 5, January 1998) Back to top
"I was interested in the section on pickled olives in the last issue. I've been playing around for some years with different ways of preserving olives and have discovered some very simple methods that may be of interest to your readers.
In Umbria we have a range of uses for olives besides the oil of which we are justly proud. We use them when cooking dishes 'al cacciatore' - the method used by hunters (for instance with wild boar, pigeons, rabbit and pork) - we use them in bread and in pizzas, and we eat them on their own.
Olives to be used in various types of casseroles and stews don't require much work. I have a friend who cooks in one of our best restaurants here. The restaurant is famous for its pigeon dishes which have olives as part of the recipe. He simply takes small black olives directly from the tree and freezes small quantities in plastic bags and then puts them directly into the casserole when cooking begins. I've tried this and it works very well.
My neighbour (a woman of 80 years), takes fresh black olives and packs them into one litre lidded jars with rock salt and leaves them for a couple of months, then rinses them off and uses them straight away in cooked dishes and also for eating with prosciutto or salad. This is another simple yet effective preparation.
I have a Tunisian friend who is a mine of information about traditional products there and he showed me how to preserve olives Tunisian peasant style. You need a shallow tray with sides, two pieces of strong reasonably fine wire netting and several heavy stones. The olives are spread out on the netting (or plastic open weave shelf) which is suspended over a shallow tray. The fruit is interspersed with coarse rock salt and branches of fresh rosemary. The top piece of netting is put on and the whole package is weighted down with heavy stones. The olives are put outside (sheltered from rain) and left for about three weeks. At the end of this time juice from the olive should have leached out into the tray. If not, leave them until it has. Rinse the olives, pack them in jars, cover with either a salt solution or with olive oil. Add some rosemary twigs, black pepper, orange and lemon peel, a clove of garlic and put on the lid and leave until they are needed. I used 2 pieces of rigid netting 30 x 20 cm and it worked very well.
I picked up a tip from Maggie Beer's Book (Maggie's Orchard) that is quite useful. Like most cooks I am always left with part jars of olives I've used for bread or pizza, or half dishes of olives I've put out for nibbles. What to do with them? I keep a glazed terracotta lidded container in the kitchen and put all these olives in there with oil, a dash of wine vinegar, and some weak saline. As long as the olives stay under this mixture they keep very well and when I want to use some, I use a small sieve to get them out and add herbs or spices as I want. By the way, crushed Coriander seeds go very well with olives.
This year I'm using the Greek and Italian method I've used in the past for initial preserving. I picked some large green olives, and the usual medium sized black olives. I do between 2 to 3 kgs of each. With both lots I used a sharp knife to cut across on one side. I then put them into fresh water in a large bowl so that the water is well above them and also between them. I left the green olives for a couple of weeks and the black olives a week or so longer. I changed the water every two days.
Towards the end of the fortnight I began to add a bit of rock salt because, although I've never had olives go off in this process, we had a bit of warm weather and I was being prudent. At the end of this process I put the green olives into a strong solution of brine - about 1 cup of coarse rock salt to 8 cups of water - in a 3kg Kilner jar, and put a half inch of olive oil on top before sealing. These are now in my cool, dark pantry and will stay there for about six months before I begin to use them.
The black olives (which took longer to lose their harsh bitterness), have been rinsed and packed into the jar with the same saline solution as above plus 150mls of malt vinegar (I couldn't get this here so have used some white wine vinegar), and some rosemary, some black peppercorns, and topped the lot with half an inch of olive oil before sealing and storing in the pantry.
Another neighbour here tells me that she never adds aromatics to her olives until the night before she wants to eat as antipasto. Then she takes them from the storage jars in which they live and puts them in a solution of oil, weak saline and a little vinegar, and adds lemon and orange peel, rosemary, garlic, chilli, coriander seed, black pepper, alone or in combination, and soaks them overnight. She takes them out about and hour before using them and serves them in small dishes. I can guarantee they are delicious.
Olives here are also just dried outside in the fresh air and then salted and stored in jars without any liquid or oil at all. They are taken out and rinsed and used just as they are. The same thing is done with tomatoes. Strings of tomatoes hang from every contadino household at the end of summer. Onions and garlic are also dried outdoors and keep very well because of it.
In my experience, the critical thing is to leave the olives in their brine or brine mix for as long as possible before using them. Whatever method you use to process your olives, the flavour needs about six months to become acceptable for eating. I've known people forget they have stored olives in dark places in a saline solution for a couple of years and then found to their surprise that they are delicious. Salt seemed to be a common means of leaching out the bitterness but once that is done a combination or salt, vinegar, and oil (all traditional preservatives) can be mixed or used alone to preserve the fruit. Alternatively, drying alone is a perfectly acceptable way of preserving olives.
One has to remember that olive preservation has been a tradition in peasant societies where complicated methods, fancy utensils and sophisticated chemicals are not possible or available. Today, wooden tubs, and terracotta storage pots are chic and not easily obtainable in anglo-saxon countries (although I can get them easily and cheaply here), but a large crockery bowl and glass preserving jars are, salt and vinegar are cheap and handy, and oil is always available, so one can simply adapt the peasant methods to one's kitchen.
We don't grow large quantities of table olives here in Umbria so all our recipes are for olives we take from our existing trees - Frantoio, Leccino, Dolce Agogia, Moraiolo, and, in our case, some very old and unnamed varieties that we inherited. We have planted some Spanish and Greek table varieties but to date they've had little fruit as we suffered from severe frosts and hail for their first two years of growth. I've found our oil olives quite good for both eating and cooking. - Lynne Chatterton - Umbria, Italy."
Ash and Olives! by Craig Hill Back to top
Craig Hill has very kindly sent us this 'environmentally friendly' pickling recipe.
Following last issue's pickling recipe article, you might be interested in the following green table olive recipe adapted from "L'Olivier et la préparation des olives en Provence: recettes familiales" by Max Lambert:
1. Crush and sift a quantity of new wood ash; the weight of the ash should be equal to the weight of the olives to be prepared. The olives should be freshly picked, clean and undamaged.
2. Make a fairly liquid paste by pouring boiling water on the ash. Cover and allow to cool completely.
3. Carefully stir in the olives to coat them with the ash paste.
4. Gently stir the olives once daily for 5 to 7 days.
5. Towards the end of the week, cut several olives lengthwise; the 'désamérisation' ["de-bitter-isation"] is complete when the fruit has darkened to about 1mm from the stone.
6. Rinse the olives clean [dispose of the ash paste and contaminated water thoughtfully] and submerge them in clean water (avoiding contact with the air); the water should be changed every 4 or so hours for the first day, then daily for 3 or 4 more days. This process is finished when the water remains clear and has no or little rusty discoloration. [At this stage you should also taste the fruit: although the flavour will be rather crude, the bitterness should have all but disappeared.]
7. Preserve in sterile jar(s) in a saline solution or vinegar mixture as in the usual recipes, adding aromatic herbs, garlic, lemon pieces to taste and with a 5mm layer of olive oil.
The concentration of the preservative/saline solution in point 7 should be sufficient to partially float an egg or a small potato. Personally I err on the generous side with the salt (thinking that the olives are doing me so much good that the body can probably tolerate a bit more salt!). Depending on the aromatics, I've usually added about 10% vinegar. An Italian contact also taught me the trick of keeping the olives submerged by placing a 'wreath' of wild fennel stalks under the lid.
An unusual method but with a sound explanation! Wood ash is about as alkaline as the usual soda/lye recipes and this neutralises the oleopicrine. The advantage of this "alkaline" bath is that, done properly, it preserves the integrity ie the flavour, firmness and colour of the fruit. The advantage of this method is that it 'appears' to be a bit more environmentally friendly than using caustic or washing soda. There is still the problem of disposing of the strongly alkaline paste, but it seems to be less environmentally disastrous than some other methods. - Craig Hill"
Waterlogging is a significant challenge in many Australian olive groves due to the combination of heavy clay soils and episodic intense rainfall. Even brief periods of saturated soil (“wet feet”) can harm olive tree health and predispose trees to root diseases. This article explores why waterlogging is harmful to olive trees, how soil factors like clay pans and sodicity contribute to poor drainage, and the link between waterlogged conditions and root pathogens such as Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia. It also outlines how growers and agronomists can diagnose waterlogging risk both before planting and in established groves, and recommends practical prevention and mitigation strategies (from soil mounding and gypsum application to engineered drainage systems) tailored to Australian conditions.
Olive trees require not just water but also oxygen in the root zone for normal function. When soil becomes waterlogged, the air spaces in soil pores fill with water, depriving roots of oxygen. Without sufficient oxygen, root cells cannot respire properly, leading to energy starvation, root damage, and eventually root death. In prolonged waterlogging, this cascade can kill fine roots and impair the tree’s ability to take up water and nutrients, causing symptoms similar to drought or nutrient deficiency despite the excess water. Above-ground, waterlogged olive trees often show leaf wilting, yellowing (e.g., iron chlorosis or nitrogen deficiency from leached soils), and premature leaf drop as roots asphyxiate. In severe cases, entire branches may die back, and the tree can collapse if critical roots rot.
One physiological disorder in olives related to excess soil moisture is oedema, where high soil moisture causes cells near the stem lenticels to engorge and burst. This results in small corky growths on stems, and indicates that roots have been in saturated, low-oxygen conditions. Roots in such conditions may suffocate (“asphyxiate”) due to oxygen depletion, leaving portions of the root system dead or weakened. These weakened roots no longer function effectively and are prone to invasion by opportunistic soil microbes. In fact, waterlogged olive roots are often observed to become infected by normally minor pathogens or decay organisms like Fusarium, Pythium, and various bacteria that exploit the stressed, oxygen-starved tissue. Thus, beyond the direct damage from lack of oxygen, waterlogging indirectly predisposes olive trees to root rot diseases and decline.
It is important to note that olive trees, while drought-hardy, do not tolerate poor drainage. They evolved in well-drained Mediterranean-type soils and will suffer in waterlogged ground. A common adage is that olive trees can “drown” in waterlogged soil. In fact, extension specialists warn that olive trees are often killed by poor drainage when saturated soil conditions persist in the root zone. Even a few days of soil saturation can begin to injure roots; pot experiments in related tree crops show growth reduction after 3–7 days of waterlogging, and shallow stagnant water in hot weather can kill trees within hours. The faster excess water can drain or recede, the better the chances of the olive tree’s survival and recovery. This underscores why good site drainage is critical for sustainable olive production.
Soil properties largely determine whether an olive grove will drain well or waterlog after rain. Sandy or loam soils tend to have ample macroporosity and usually drain freely, whereas clay-rich soils have tiny pores that hold water and allow it to percolate slowly. In dry climates, a clay soil’s water-holding capacity can be beneficial; however, under high rainfall or poor drainage, the same clay can lead to prolonged saturation. Many Australian olive groves are on heavy duplex or clay soils, and naturally well-structured, free-draining soils with deep profiles are hard to come by. (Indeed, as noted for other orchards, ideal soils are “difficult to find in Australia,” and many orchards succeed on marginal soils only through good soil and water management .) Two common soil constraints in Australia that contribute to waterlogging are clay pans and sodicity.
Clay-panning refers to the presence of a dense, hard layer of clay or compacted soil below the surface that roots and water cannot easily penetrate. In olive groves, clay pans can form due to poor soil preparation or natural soil horizons. For example, working the soil when it is too wet or repeated machinery traffic can smear or compact a subsurface layer, effectively creating a “pan”. Additionally, some duplex soils have a naturally abrupt clay subsoil. This hard subsurface layer prevents olive roots from growing downward and also impedes internal drainage, often causing a perched water table to form above the pan during wet periods. The result is that the tree has a shallow, pancake-like root system trapped above the hardpan. Such trees may initially grow okay in dry times, but they become unthrifty and prone to stress-related dieback because their roots are confined to the shallow layer. During heavy rain, water quickly saturates the shallow root zone (since it cannot drain through the pan), leading to temporary waterlogging around the roots. This induces the oxygen deprivation and root stress discussed earlier, compounding the tree’s problems. Conversely, during dry spells, the shallow-rooted tree cannot access deeper moisture below the pan, so it experiences drought stress more readily. Thus, clay-panning creates a double vulnerability: it causes waterlogging stress in wet conditions and drought stress in dry conditions. Affected trees often show chronic ill health and may even blow over in strong winds due to poor anchorage from the shallow roots. In short, a clay pan under an olive grove is a serious impediment to both drainage and root development.
Sodic soils are another common culprit behind poor drainage. A soil is sodic when it has a high proportion of sodium ions attached to clay particles (often measured as Exchangeable Sodium Percentage > 6%). Sodium causes clay particles to disperse (deflocculate) when wet, which plugs soil pores and collapses soil structure. Many Australian agricultural soils are sodic and dispersive – estimates suggest roughly one-third of Australia’s soils have sodicity issues. In Western Australia, for instance, dispersive sodic clays are widespread in duplex profiles, and when these soils get wet, the dispersed clay clogs the pore spaces, drastically restricting water infiltration and drainage. The result is that water sits on or near the surface, creating waterlogged conditions even with moderate rainfall. In medium to high rainfall regions, sodic duplex soils are especially prone to waterlogging because their subsoils percolate so poorly. Once saturated, they also take a long time to dry out. Sodicity often coexists with other constraints like alkalinity or salinity, further complicating management, but from a drainage perspective, the key issue is dispersed clay = sealed pores = no aeration. You can often identify dispersive sodic clays by a milky cloud when a soil clod is dropped in water (dispersion) or by a hard-setting, crusted surface after rains. In field pits, sodic subsoils may appear mottled and dense, indicating periodic perched water tables. Without intervention, olive trees on such soils will struggle each time rainfall leads to a perched water table around their roots.
Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is a well-known amendment for sodic clay soils. The calcium in gypsum can replace sodium on clay particles, helping the clay to flocculate (clump) rather than disperse. This improves soil structure and opens up pore space for better drainage. For olive groves on sodic clay, incorporating gypsum into the soil can significantly improve permeability and reduce waterlogging. The exact amount should be guided by soil tests (gypsum requirement) – often several tons per hectare or a generous application in each planting hole. One practical guideline given by olive advisors is to mix roughly a quarter of a standard bucket of gypsum into each planting hole or tree site when preparing clay soil. This helps “break up” the clay structure and promote drainage. However, gypsum is not a magic fix for all clay issues; it works best if the poor drainage is due to sodicity or dispersive clays. If a hardpan or heavy texture is the issue (rather than sodium dispersion), mechanical soil loosening and surface drainage may be needed in addition to or instead of gypsum. It’s also worth noting that adding gravel or sand to the planting hole will NOT improve drainage in heavy clay – a common misconception. Small gravel in a clay hole can actually create a pseudo-“pot” with water perched on the interface; it’s ineffective at best and harmful at worst. Improving the overall soil structure and profile drainage (through gypsum, organic matter, and deep ripping) or planting above the natural surface (mounding) are more effective approaches for heavy clay.
In summary, understanding your grove’s soil profile is critical. A bit of investigative work – digging soil pits or augering – can reveal if you have an impermeable clay layer or a sodic dispersive subsoil that could cause waterlogging. Identifying these issues before planting allows you to take corrective action (ripping, gypsum, mounding, etc.) rather than watching trees suffer later. As the old adage goes, “plant your olive trees in $10 holes, not 10¢ holes” – investing in soil preparation pays off enormously in preventing water problems down the track.
Excessively wet soils create an inviting environment for certain root pathogens that plague olive trees. Foremost among these is Phytophthora, a water-mold (oomycete) often responsible for root rot and collar rot in olives. Phytophthora thrives in waterlogged soil – it produces motile spores that swim through free water in soil, infecting roots under wet conditions. Not surprisingly, Phytophthora root and crown rot in olive is consistently associated with poorly drained, wet soils, clay pans, or any situation of prolonged waterlogging. Surveys in Australia have isolated multiple Phytophthora species (such as P. palmivora, P. cinnamomi, P. cryptogea, P. citricola, and others) from olive root or trunk rot cases, almost always in groves with drainage problems. Young trees are especially vulnerable – infections often strike within the first few years if a susceptible young tree is planted into waterlogged ground. Infected trees show telltale symptoms: reduced vigor and stunted growth, sparse canopies, dieback of shoot tips, yellowing leaves that drop prematurely, and darkly discolored or rotting roots. Sometimes, a reddish or cinnamon-brown staining under the bark near the crown is seen, and gummosis or cankers may appear at the base. If the disease progresses, parts of the canopy wilt as the decayed roots can no longer supply water, and trees can collapse suddenly during periods of stress (e.g., a hot, dry spell following the wet conditions). Phytophthora root rot can kill trees outright or set them into a decline over several years. An olive grower from NSW DPI noted that Phytophthora root rot is often observed when “excessively wet soils, clay-panning or poor drainage” occur in the grove. This pathogen was particularly problematic in Eastern Australian groves during unusually wet summers; for instance, a spike in olive root rot was reported on the east coast (NSW) following very high summer rainfall in 2008. Australian olive growers must therefore regard Phytophthora as a primary hazard wherever water may accumulate around roots.
Another pathogen of concern is Rhizoctonia, a fungus that causes root rots and “damping off” in many crops. Rhizoctonia in olives has been found in several Australian states, typically affecting young trees or nursery stock. Infected olive roots develop brown lesions, the outer bark may slough off, and under a microscope, you might see the characteristic brown resting structures (sclerotia) on the roots. Above-ground, Rhizoctonia infection can mimic drought stress – leaves get dry tips, yellow, defoliate, and the plant can even die back as if it were water-starved. Interestingly, Rhizoctonia root rot in olive is not as strictly tied to waterlogging as Phytophthora is. Reports indicate Rhizoctonia outbreaks can occur under both dry and moist soil conditions. This fungus often lives in soil and plant debris and can persist through adverse conditions by forming resilient sclerotia. Rather than requiring flooded soil, Rhizoctonia tends to attack when plants are weakened or roots are growing poorly. For example, if waterlogging has damaged roots, Rhizoctonia can invade the dying tissue; conversely, if the soil is very dry and the roots are stressed, Rhizoctonia might also take advantage. In practice, severe Rhizoctonia root rot has mainly been noted in young or potted olive plants. Healthy mature trees are usually less susceptible, presumably because they have more extensive roots and stored resources. Nonetheless, the presence of Rhizoctonia in many Australian olive groves (NSW, SA, QLD, VIC have all reported it ) means that any condition that stresses roots – including waterlogging – could open the door to this pathogen. A waterlogged olive may later show Rhizoctonia root rot symptoms once the soil dries, as the fungus colonizes the damaged root cortex. Thus, water management helps indirectly to prevent Rhizoctonia by keeping roots robust.
In addition to Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia, waterlogged conditions can favor other root diseases: - Pythium species (another water mold) can cause feeder root rot in saturated soils, especially in young trees or nurseries, though it is generally a weaker pathogen than Phytophthora. It often acts as an opportunist on stressed roots. - Fusarium fungi have been isolated from olive roots with rot, showing reddish-brown discoloration and poor growth in young plants. Like Rhizoctonia, Fusarium can persist as hardy spores in soil and tends to strike when plants are predisposed by stress (e.g., excess moisture followed by dryness). - Verticillium dahliae, which causes Verticillium wilt, is a serious olive pathogen, particularly in soils with a history of susceptible crops (e.g., cotton, tomatoes). Verticillium is not directly caused by waterlogging (it doesn’t require saturated soil), but wet, cool conditions can favor its infection cycle. There is some evidence that water stress (either too much or too little) can exacerbate Verticillium symptoms.
Finally, secondary wood decay fungi and bacteria can exploit olive trees after waterlogging injury. Waterlogged roots and lower trunks may develop cracks or cankers (from swelling and shrinkage or bacterial infections), and fungi such as Botryosphaeria or Armillaria (if present in soil) can invade. Australian olive experts have noted that many trunk and branch canker diseases become problematic when trees are stressed or wounded, and waterlogging is one stress that can precipitate those infections. A clear management recommendation from plant pathologists is to “ensure soil drains freely to avoid waterlogging and subsequent root pathogen infections.”. Good drainage is thus a frontline defense against not only Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia, but a whole suite of diseases that take advantage of trees in waterlogged, weakened conditions.
Identifying areas at risk of waterlogging – and detecting early signs of poor drainage – can save growers much trouble. Assessment should be done both before planting a new grove and as an ongoing practice in established orchards (especially after extreme weather). Here are some diagnostic approaches:
Before Planting – Site and Soil Evaluation: Start with a thorough look at the land and soil where you intend to plant olives. Low-lying paddocks, valley bottoms, or sites near river flats are obvious risk zones for flooding and waterlogging. If a site has a history of ponding water after rain or you notice water-loving weeds/reeds in parts of it, take caution. Beyond surface clues, a soil profile examination is extremely useful. Dig soil pits or use a backhoe to create a trench about 1 m deep in representative spots. Inspect the soil layers: is there a distinct, dense clay subsoil? Is there a bleached or mottled layer indicating past waterlogging (gray or orange mottles often mean seasonal saturation)? Look for any “wet layer” or seepage line in the pit – sometimes you’ll find a saturated zone or even seeping water at a certain depth, which indicates a perched water table and poor drainage. Also note any hardpan or compaction layer (for example, from prior farming) – you might see old root growth flattened out horizontally along a hard layer, signaling roots couldn’t penetrate. If you find a compacted or smeared layer in your pit, record how deep it is; that guides how deep you’ll need to break it up (e.g., via ripping).
A simple in-field drainage test can be very illuminating as well. One recommended method is the overnight hole drainage test: dig a hole about 30–40 cm deep and fill it with water. Let it sit overnight. If the water has not fully drained away by the next morning, that soil has poor infiltration and is likely to cause waterlogging issues. Ideally, a well-draining soil will absorb that water within a few hours. If it’s still there after 8–12 hours, you have a problem. Performing this test in a few locations (especially in any suspected heavy soil patches) before planting will tell you where drainage amendments or mounding are necessary.
It’s also wise to test the soil for sodicity and texture through a lab. A soil analysis can reveal a high exchangeable sodium percentage (sodic soil), which would warn you that dispersion and drainage issues are likely unless ameliorated. If laboratory tests or field dispersion tests (like an Emerson crumb test) show the soil is dispersive, plan on applying gypsum or other soil conditioners before planting. Additionally, understanding the soil’s clay content and type (e.g., reactive clays vs. sandy loams) helps predict how prone it is to waterlogging.
After Planting – Monitoring and Early Warning: Once the olive grove is established, growers should remain vigilant, especially in seasons of abnormal rainfall. One straightforward practice is to observe the orchard after heavy rains. Take note of any sections where water pools or drains slowly. Puddles that remain for more than a day, or wheel tracks that stay boggy, are red flags. You might see a greasy shine or algae on soil that stays wet too long. If only small patches are waterlogged, it could be due to a local pan or a low spot – mark those for remedial action (drainage or replanting on a mound, discussed later). Also, inspect the trees themselves for early stress signals. In winter or early spring, when rains are frequent, watch for any trees that develop an overall light yellow hue or begin dropping leaves out of season – this can indicate their roots are struggling from a lack of oxygen or root rot infection in saturated soil. Compare growth and yield: sections of the grove that lag could be suffering from suboptimal root conditions underground (often wet feet or poor soil structure).
A useful technique is to use an auger or spade to check the soil moisture around roots after rain. Dig down near the root zone of a few trees: is the soil waterlogged (gleysolic grey color or foul smell indicating anaerobic conditions)? Does the hole fill with water from below, suggesting a high water table? Healthy, drained soil will feel moist but friable, whereas waterlogged soil may be soupy or have a sewage-like odor (from anaerobic bacteria). Another diagnostic sign in heavy clay soils is a surface crust or hard pan that forms after waterlogging and drying – this can indicate dispersive clay. If you observe a surface crust, you may need to break it up (light cultivation) to allow oxygen back in; its presence also suggests you should address the underlying soil structure for the longer term.
For diagnosing root disease issues related to waterlogging, consider testing suspect trees. If a tree declines after wet conditions, you might have Phytophthora or other root rot at work. Commercial lab services (such as Grow Help Australia or state department diagnostic labs) are available to test soil or root samples for pathogens. For example, SARDI (South Australian Research and Development Institute) offers a DNA-based soil testing service (like Predicta B for broadacre, and similar for horticulture) to detect Phytophthora and other soil-borne diseases before or after planting. These tests can confirm if Phytophthora spores are present in your soil or if a dying tree’s roots have Phytophthora or Rhizoctonia. While such testing incurs a cost, it can be invaluable in pinpointing the cause of decline and informing management (e.g., whether to treat with fungicides or improve drainage, or both).
In summary, before planting, dig and percolation-test your soils to identify drainage issues and rectify them early. After planting, keep an eye (and shovel) on how water moves and dissipates in your grove. Early intervention – whether it’s digging a quick trench to drain water or treating a root rot outbreak – can prevent minor waterlogging from snowballing into major tree losses.
An olive tree in a low-lying part of the grove showing signs of waterlogging: the soil is saturated and puddled around the trunk, and the tree exhibits leaf drop and dieback. Such areas should be identified and addressed proactively (through drainage or mounding) to avoid root disease development.
Preventing waterlogging in olive groves starts with good site selection and preparation, and continues with strategic management and engineering solutions in the field. Below are key methods – both traditional cultural practices and engineered interventions – to keep olive roots high and dry (or at least prevent them from drowning). Emphasis is placed on techniques proven under Australian conditions, where heavy clay subsoils and intense rain events are common.
1. Site Selection and Layout: If you have the luxury of choosing or modifying the planting site, favor locations and layouts that facilitate drainage. Avoid planting olives in natural drainage sumps or flood-prone flats. A gentle slope (even just a 1-2% gradient) is beneficial to shed surface water. If the grove site is flat, you may need to create a slope by laser-leveling or at least plan surface water runoff routes. As a rule, ensure there is somewhere for excess water to go – a lower corner, a dam, a runoff channel – before planting trees. Also consider row orientation and planting density: rows oriented downhill can sometimes act as channels for water flow, whereas contour planting (following the land’s contours) can slow runoff – the best approach depends on your topography and should aim to avoid water accumulating around trunks.
2. Deep Tillage (Subsoil Ripping): For soils with a suspected hardpan or dense clay layer, performing deep ripping or subsoil plowing before planting is highly recommended. Running a stout ripper (with tines that penetrate 50–80 cm deep) through the planting lines will break up compacted layers and fracture the subsoil, improving vertical drainage and root access. Olive experts note that if you have at least ~1.2 m of uninterrupted, well-structured soil profile, you might not need deep ripping. But if a restrictive layer is present at, say, 30–60 cm, ripping is vital. Ripping is often done in two passes (in a cross-hatch pattern) and ideally when the soil is moist (but not wet plastic) to achieve shattering of the pan. In severe cases of textural contrast (e.g., a sharp clay layer), some growers use a slip plow or mouldboard to invert or mix soil layers, but this is a more intensive operation. Deep tillage encourages olive roots to explore deeper and allows rainwater to penetrate the soil profile rather than pooling on top. It must be done well before planting (the season prior) so the soil can settle and rainfall can re-form some structure in the profile. Note that if the subsoil is sodic, ripping alone is not enough – it should be combined with gypsum incorporation so that the shattered clay does not simply disperse and re-seal.
3. Raised Beds and Mounding: One of the most effective strategies for waterlogging-prone sites is to raise the olive tree root zone above the natural ground level. This can be done either by establishing raised beds across entire orchard rows or by mounding individual tree planting sites. In Australia, raised beds have been widely used in other horticulture and even broadacre cropping to manage waterlogging, and the same concept applies to olive groves. A raised bed can be created by heaping and berming soil along the row, typically using a grader blade or bed-forming implement. For individual mounds, soil can be scraped from the inter-row area and piled where the tree will go, or additional soil (preferably a loamy soil) can be imported and added. The mound should be at least 45–80 cm high and about 0.9–1 m in diameter to be effective. In practice, many olive growers aim for roughly knee-height mounds. This elevation ensures that even if water pools in the paddock, the tree’s crown and upper root system are above the saturation zone. It also encourages lateral roots to grow outward into better-aerated topsoil. In South Australia and Western Australia, some growers have reported success planting on long raised berms, especially on duplex clay soils – these berms function like narrow ridges that shed water to the furrows between rows. Raised beds significantly reduce the incidence of waterlogging by allowing excess rain to run off the bed and by improving soil aeration in the root zone. Keep in mind that raised beds can dry out faster in summer, so irrigation might need adjustment (drip lines on top of the mound, etc.). The cost of mounding (earthworks) is an investment, but it is far cheaper than losing trees or yielding to waterlogging. If one cannot mound the entire block, at least mound the low or heavy-soil sections, or mound individual high-value trees.
4. Soil Amendments – Gypsum and Organic Matter: As mentioned, gypsum is the go-to amendment for dispersive (sodic) clays. Applying gypsum in the planting row or even broadcasting and incorporating it into the topsoil can improve soil structure over time. For new plantings, incorporate gypsum into the soil during ground preparation (rates might be in the order of 2.5–5 t/ha or more, depending on soil tests). In an existing grove, surface-applied gypsum (e.g., a band along the tree row) will eventually leach into the soil and help flocculate clay, though incorporation is better if feasible. Gypsum takes effect over months to years, so be patient and reapply as needed based on soil test ESP levels. Alongside gypsum, building soil organic matter can also enhance drainage. Adding compost or manure in moderate quantities can improve soil aggregation and porosity, especially in lighter soils. However, in very heavy clays, too much organic matter at once can actually hold more moisture; the key is a balanced approach. Cover crops or mulches can also improve soil structure over the long term and help create macropores (via root channels and earthworm activity) that assist drainage. Just be cautious that any added organics are well rotted – raw manures can sometimes temporarily worsen structure or tie up nitrogen.
5. Surface Drainage Systems: Engineering the surface water flow can prevent water from ever accumulating around olive roots. A common method is installing spoon drains or diversion banks to channel runoff away. Spoon drains are shallow, broad depressions dug across a slope that act like artificial creeks; they intercept overland flow (or excess rain from a flat) and convey it to a safe outlet (such as a dam or a natural waterway). They can be constructed with a grader and should have a gentle grade to encourage flow. It’s important to place such drains above the orchard or in inter-row areas to catch water before it settles around trees. In flatter groves, even a small ditch (30–40 cm deep) along one side of the block can help drain water out. Ensure any surface drain is kept clear of silt and trash, especially after storms. Also, avoid discharging the water onto a neighbor’s land without permission – route it to a designated drainage line. In orchards that are already planted, growers have dug emergency drains when facing waterlogging; for example, running a single furrow with a tractor through a waterlogged aisle to give water an escape route. While this isn’t ideal for root disturbance, it can save trees in a pinch by getting water off the orchard quickly. Remember, the faster water drains after heavy rainfall, the better the chance your trees won’t suffer.
6. Subsurface Drainage Systems: For chronic waterlogging in high-value groves, a subsurface drainage system may be warranted. This typically involves burying perforated or slotted PVC “agricultural pipes” (aka tile drains or ag lines) below the root zone to lower the water table. A common design is to trench in slotted pipes at a depth of 60–100 cm, in parallel lines across the orchard, with a slight gradient to lead water out to a sump or outlet. These trenches are backfilled with gravel or coarse sand around the pipe to act as a filter and encourage water entry. The spacing of drains depends on soil permeability – heavy clays might need drains every 10–20 m, whereas loams can have wider spacing. Subsurface drainage is best designed by an engineer or experienced drainage contractor because the specifics (depth, spacing, outlet, gradient) are critical for it to function properly. When done correctly, subsurface drains can effectively draw excess water out of the root zone before it causes harm. This solution is more common in larger orchards or where waterlogging is severe and persistent (e.g., an olive grove on a flat clay plain). It is an expensive up-front solution, but it can make an otherwise unviable site productive. Some Australian growers have combined subsurface drains with raised beds – the raised bed keeps the surface roots dry, while the buried pipes lower the overall water table. If you install subsurface drains, also install observation points (e.g., riser pipes or inspection pits) to monitor flow and allow maintenance (flushing out silt, etc.) in the future.
7. Water Management and Irrigation Practices: Growers should also adjust their irrigation strategy to the soil’s capacity. Over-irrigation can mimic waterlogging even on well-drained sites. In heavy soils or areas prone to saturation, use shorter, more frequent irrigation rather than deep, infrequent soaking. Ensure drip emitters are not leaking excessively in one spot. It’s also prudent to pause irrigation if rain is forecast or after heavy rain – monitor soil moisture and only resume when the profile has drained sufficiently. Smart irrigation controllers or soil moisture sensors (tensiometers, capacitance probes) can aid in preventing inadvertent waterlogging from irrigation by giving real-time feedback on soil saturation. Essentially, match your irrigation volume to the soil infiltration rate; any water applied beyond what the soil can absorb will stagnate and harm roots. During cooler months or rainy periods, many Australian olive groves need little to no irrigation – trees can often sustain on stored subsoil moisture until conditions dry out.
8. Remedial Actions for At-Risk Trees: Despite best efforts, you may still find pockets of waterlogging in an established grove – for example, an unexpected seep area or a spot you thought would drain that did not. In such cases, it’s important to take corrective action quickly. For individual trees suffering in a boggy spot, one option (labor-intensive but effective) is to dig out and replant the tree on a mound. Carefully remove the tree during winter dormancy or a cool period, lifting as much of the root ball as possible (or take cuttings if the tree is small and root rot is advanced). Then improve that site – scoop out a wide planting hole, mix in gypsum if clay, and backfill to create a mound 0.5 m or more high – and replant the olive on this raised position. This essentially “rescues” the tree from the swampy ground. It’s best done before the tree is too weakened. Afterwards, monitor it closely for recovery and consider protective fungicide (e.g., phosphite) treatments for root rot.
For larger sections of the grove that prove wet, you might implement a new drain or trench as discussed, even if it means sacrificing a row middle for drainage. Cutting a shallow drain along a contour above the wet area can intercept water, or a deeper trench through the wet area can drain it. These fixes can be done after harvest when equipment access is easier and minor root damage from trenching will be less impactful. Always restore ground cover or mulch over disturbed soil to prevent erosion after digging drains.
9. Disease Management in Waterlogged Situations: If trees have experienced waterlogging, there is a risk of root disease taking hold. As a preventive measure in waterlogged-prone orchards, some Australian agronomists recommend applying phosphorus acid (phosphonate) routinely. Phosphorous acid is a low-toxicity fungicide that is very effective at suppressing Phytophthora in many crops. It can be applied as a foliar spray (commonly at 2.5–10 mL/L depending on product strength) every 6–8 weeks during the wet season. The chemical boosts the tree’s own defenses and can halt incipient Phytophthora infections. In olives, phosphonate is often applied to the leaves (or even as a trunk spray or injection if the canopy is sparse) and allowed to translocate to the roots. This is a preventative approach – it’s most effective when applied before or at the onset of waterlogging conditions, not after a root rot is advanced. If your grove is in a region with warm, wet summers (e.g., Northern NSW or Queensland) where Phytophthora is known to be present, a proactive phosphonate program on young trees can be a lifesaver. Additionally, ensure good sanitation: avoid moving soil from wet infected areas to clean areas (Phytophthora spreads via water and soil), and quarantine any new nursery stock (check their roots for health).
Should Rhizoctonia or other fungi be suspected after waterlogging, there are no specific curative sprays, but improving conditions for the tree to recover is key. This may involve fertilizing the foliage (since compromised roots can’t uptake nutrients well). Foliar feeds of calcium and boron, for instance, have been observed to help olives push new healthy root and shoot growth after water stress. A complete foliar nutrient spray (including NPK and trace elements) can support the tree while its roots regenerate. Prune out any dead or dying branches caused by dieback, but avoid heavy pruning of live tissue – the tree needs as much healthy leaf area as possible to recover. Instead, only remove the clearly necrotic wood and allow any new suckers from the base to grow (they help rebuild the canopy and root system balance). Once the tree shows recovery and the soil has been fixed (drained or mounded), it should regain strength over subsequent seasons.
10. Regional Considerations: Across Australia, the strategies above should be tailored to the local climate. In Mediterranean-climate regions (e.g. South Australia, WA), the highest waterlogging risk is in winter and early spring when rains are frequent – here, focus on winter drainage and perhaps covercropping in summer to maintain structure. In summer-rainfall areas (e.g., eastern Australia), intense downpours can cause flash waterlogging even in midsummer; ensure drainage is ready year-round and be cautious with summer irrigation. In some parts of NSW and QLD, heavy clay soils underlay the valleys – these are classic cases for raised bed planting plus prophylactic phosphonate sprays in the storm season. Contrastingly, in parts of Victoria or southern NSW, waterlogging might coincide with cooler weather, which slows tree metabolism; there, one must be wary of diseases like Verticillium, too, which can co-occur in cool wet soils. No matter the region, always aim to “get the water off the paddock, or get the tree above the water.” A combination of the discussed methods often yields the best result – for instance, ripping + mounding + surface drains + gypsum application might all be employed on a particularly challenging block of sodic clay.
In conclusion, managing waterlogging in olive groves requires diligence in planning, observation, and intervention. The effort is justified by the potentially severe consequences of inaction: tree losses, disease outbreaks, and reduced yields. By understanding your soil’s quirks (clay pans, sodicity) and using the preventive tools available (from mounds and drains to chemical treatments for root rot), you can successfully grow olives on difficult soils and in wet climates. As Australian experience has shown, even marginal clay lands can produce healthy olive crops if waterlogging is kept at bay through smart agronomy. The key takeaways for growers are: prioritize drainage in every decision, regularly inspect and maintain soil structure, and act quickly at the first sign of water stress or root disease. With these practices, olive trees can thrive in regions of heavy rain and clay, yielding bountifully without getting their feet too wet.
OLIVE OIL STORAGE

The Sansone Welded Fusti Tanks represent one of the most trusted stainless steel container designs in the food industry. Manufactured in Italy by Sansone, these tanks are built according to the highest international standards for the preservation of food-grade liquids such as olive oil, wine, honey, and food-grade liquids.
Each unit is produced using 18/10 AISI 304 stainless steel and is NSF certified, ensuring unmatched reliability, purity, and corrosion resistance. Their seamless welded construction guarantees easy cleaning and prevents the accumulation of organic matter or bacterial colonies - a crucial feature for industries where hygiene is paramount.
Built with head-to-head welding technology, the Sansone welded drums are designed to achieve maximum cleanliness and strength. This advanced welding method eliminates internal joints, making the surface completely smooth, which allows for easy sanitation and total prevention of bacterial growth.
These tanks are ideal for food processing, laboratory, and industrial applications that require hygiene compliant liquid handling. The seamless welded design also upholds that no residues or flavour transfer occur, maintaining the quality of your stored product.
Each model undergoes strict testing to meet the most rigorous quality standards and is part of Sansone’s commitment to producing long-lasting stainless steel containers that meet professional and domestic needs alike.
All models are equipped with a welded stainless-steel setup for a ½-inch tap, allowing safe and precise liquid dispensing. Each drum can also be paired with optional stainless steel or laminated stands, available in tall and short models or even with wheels for mobility.
Sansone provides several high-quality accessories to enhance functionality and handling convenience:
Each Sansone welded fusti is produced under ISO 9001:2000 certified quality control systems to ensure consistent performance and reliability. The use of premium-grade 18/10 stainless steel guarantees long life, even under demanding industrial use.
Whether used in olive oil production by producers, wineries, or laboratories, these tanks provide the peace of mind that comes from Italian-made precision engineering, smooth cleaning surfaces, and safe, airtight liquid containment.
For olive oil producers, the Sansone Europa welded tanks provide the ideal environment for oil preservation, protecting against oxidation and contamination while maintaining taste and freshness. The tanks’ sleek finish and robust structure also make them suitable for front-of-house or retail presentation, where hygiene and visual quality are essential.
From boutique olive oil farms to food manufacturers, these stainless steel fusti tanks represent a long-term investment in quality, safety, and professionalism.
If you’re ready to elevate your storage and preservation standards with Sansone stainless steel welded tanks, explore the full range at
https://theolivecentre.com/shop/stainless-steel-tanks-2l-to-99l
As Australia’s leading distributor for Sansone products, The Olive Centre provides expert advice, local support, and fast delivery — helping you choose the perfect stainless steel fusti to suit your needs
Preserving the integrity of high-quality foods and liquids - especially extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) - depends on two things: a sound understanding of correct storage parameters and the use of vessels engineered to uphold those conditions with absolute reliability. This is where Sansone, Italy’s premier stainless-steel tank manufacturer, stands far above conventional storage solutions. As global quality standards evolve, the industry has moved decisively away from breathable plastics & reactive metals. With increasing focus on purity, sustainability, and product shelf-life, food-grade stainless steel has become the internationally accepted gold standard for storing oils, beverages, ferments, honey, pharmaceuticals, and more. Within that space, Sansone’s range - distributed in Australia by The Olive Centre - has set the benchmark for durability, hygiene, and performance for over five decades.
International Olive Council (IOC) guidelines highlight the key threats to olive oil quality, i.e. oxygen, light, and heat, each of which accelerates oxidation and rancidity. Proper storage must therefore minimise air contact, prevent light exposure, and maintain stable, cool temperatures.
Sansone’s engineering and material choices align perfectly with these requirements:
1. Oxygen Protection: Airtight Design & Minimised Headspace
The IOC highlights that once a container is opened, limiting headspace is essential to slow oxidation.
How Sansone supports this:
The IOC identifies light as the main threat to olive oil quality after oxygen.
Sansone’s advantage:
The IOC recommends storing olive oil between 13 - 25°C, and notes that lower temperatures (even refrigeration) can slow oxidation.
Sansone excels in temperature resilience:
The IOC emphasises cleanliness, inert materials, and contamination avoidance.
Sansone tanks surpass these needs through:
5. Durability & Long-Term Value: Sustainability Meets Performance
Stainless steel is durable, corrosion-resistant, and 100% recyclable - maintaining its quality through multiple recycling loops. Sansone’s robust construction means a single tank can last decades, dramatically reducing lifecycle costs compared with plastics or coated metals. Their longevity also prevents product loss due to leaks, contamination, or light-induced degradation, making Sansone an economically and environmentally superior investment for producers of all scales.
| Criteria | Plastic Containers | Stainless Steel Containers (e.g. Sansone) | Glass Containers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Material Reactivity | It can leach plasticisers over time, especially with acidic or fatty products. | Completely inert; AISI 304/316 food-grade steel prevents reactions. | Inert to most liquids but may interact with extreme pH. |
| Light Protection | Allows light penetration unless opaque. | 100% light-proof - ideal for olive oil and sensitive liquids. | Transparent unless tinted; light accelerates oxidation. Coloured glass can slow down light penetration. |
| Oxygen Protection / Seal Quality | Moderate; lids may warp or expand, increasing oxygen exposure. | Excellent - airtight seals and precision threads limit oxygen exposure. | Good initially, but seals vary; headspace increases quickly once opened. |
| Durability | Prone to warping, cracking, and UV degradation. | Extremely durable - decades of use without deforming. | Fragile; breaks or chips easily. |
| Temperature Resistance | Sensitive to heat; may warp or release BPA-like compounds/plasticisers. | Highly stable across temperature ranges, including refrigeration and warm environments. | Stable but expands/contracts; risk of thermal shock. |
| Hygiene & Cleanability | Scratches retain residues and microbes; absorbs odours. | Mirror-polished surfaces prevent buildup; no odour retention; easy sanitation. | Very hygienic but difficult to clean if narrow-necked. |
| Impact on Olive Oil Quality | Can accelerate oxidation; not recommended by IOC for long-term storage. | Ideal - protects from light, heat, and oxygen; aligned with IOC guidelines. | Good if dark/tinted and stored cool, but still sensitive to light exposure. |
| Sustainability | Limited recyclability; degrades in quality each cycle. | 100% recyclable without quality loss; extremely long lifespan. | Highly recyclable but higher breakage rate. |
| Weight | Lightweight. | Moderately heavy (depending on tank size). | Heavy and cumbersome, especially in larger volumes. |
| Cost (Upfront) | Low | Higher initial investment | Moderate cost |
| Cost (Lifecycle) | High - due to frequent replacement and product spoilage risk. | Low - one tank often lasts decades; prevents losses from contamination or oxidation. | Moderate - replacement due to breakage or seal failure. |
| Suitability for Industrial Use | Poor - short lifespan and limited hygienic control. | Excellent - used in olive oil production, wineries, pharmaceuticals, honey, and beverage industries. | Limited - weight and fragility restrict large-volume use. |
| Suitability for Long-Term Food Storage | Not recommended. | Excellent - best long-term solution for oils, ferments, beverages, and extracts. | Acceptable for short-to-medium term if protected from light. |
Table. Comparison of Plastic, Stainless Steel, and Glass Containers for long-term storage of food and liquids.
6. Functional Design That Enhances Workflow
Across the entire Sansone range - from 3 L benchtop units to 10,000 L industrial vats - each model is tailored for real-world handling:
These design elements reduce labour time, improve occupational safety, and streamline production lines.
Thanks to their inertness and long service life, Sansone tanks have become essential across multiple industries:
As Australia’s leading supplier of olive and food-processing equipment, The Olive Centre selects only products with proven excellence, traceability, and long-term reliability.
The partnership with Sansone ensures Australian producers - from boutique growers to large commercial processors - gain access to:
When global storage guidelines emphasise controlling light, oxygen, and temperature to protect olive oil and other sensitive liquids, Sansone’s stainless steel tanks don’t just meet these parameters - they optimise them. Their precision engineering, food-safe materials, airtight design, and unmatched durability align perfectly with IOC recommendations, giving producers complete confidence that every drop remains as fresh, pure, and vibrant as the day it was created.
In the world of modern food preservation and processing, few names embody the standards of quality, precision, and hygiene quite like Sansone Inox. Known globally for its mastery in stainless-steel engineering, Sansone continues to lead the industry in food-grade containment technology. Among its most sought-after innovations are its stainless steel silos, designed to meet the demanding needs of producers who value product purity, easy maintenance, and long-term durability.
Now available in Australia through The Olive Centre, Sansone’s Heavy-Duty Silos with Conical Base and Easy Discharge and the Variable Capacity Silos (Sempre Pieno) represent the highest standard in food-safe stainless storage. Built entirely from AISI 304–316L stainless steel, these silos are purpose-built to safeguard liquids like olive oil, wine, honey, vinegar, and other food-grade materials while maintaining their integrity over time.
Each Sansone silo tank is manufactured in Italy under the company’s ISO 9001:2000 quality control standards. The design focus is simple but delivers absolute cleanliness and complete drainage.
The conical base ensures total discharge of stored contents, preventing residues and eliminating the risk of contamination. Smooth, mirror-polished interiors allow effortless cleaning, while “Polished” or “marble” external finishes offer durability and aesthetic refinement.
Sansone silo tanks are particularly suited for olive oil mills, cooperatives, and cellar doors, where the highest level of product protection is required. The elliptical or round inspection door, double-valve nitrogen system (for fixed capacity type), and stainless steel sampling tap provide users with complete control of the stored product from top to bottom.
Sansone’s Storage Silos with Conical Base and Easy Discharge are designed for fixed installations that demand both hygiene and efficiency. Built from AISI 304 - 316L stainless steel, these silos are ideal for the hygienic storage of liquid foods in environments where contamination-free handling is critical. Each model features a fully welded conical base that ensures total emptying of the tank and minimises product in contact with sediment. The upper cover includes a nitrogen inlet valve, allowing an inert atmosphere for long-term storage without oxidation - especially valuable for olive oil.
The silos are fitted with elliptical front doors, sight gauges, and total/partial discharge valves, making maintenance and inspection straightforward. Every unit rests on reinforced stainless steel legs for stability, ensuring long-lasting service under continuous use.
| Capacity (L) | Height (mm) | Base (mm) | Opening (mm) | Total Height (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1,000 | 1,500 | 950 | 950 | 2,300 |
| 1,500 | 1,500 | 1,100 | 1,100 | 2,600 |
| 2,000 | 1,500 | 1,270 | 1,270 | 2,300 |
| 2,500 | 2,000 | 1,270 | 1,270 | 2,800 |
| 3,000 | 2,000 | 1,430 | 1,430 | 2,800 |
| 5,000 | 2,500 | 1,600 | 1,600 | 3,400 |
Technical specifications sourced from Sansone Stainless Steel Silos documentation. Conical-base silos ensure total drainage and contamination-free storage for food-grade liquids.
These models are ideal for food processing, laboratory, and industrial settings. The seamless conical design ensures total evacuation of liquids while maintaining a contamination-free environment. Each silo undergoes rigorous testing to meet the most demanding quality standards, including leak-proof inspections and pressure-resistance validation.
Optional features include:
For producers who need flexible capacity management, Sansone’s Fixed Capacity Silos - also known as Silos Sempre Pieno - provide a reliable “always full” system that prevents oxidation and product spoilage.
Each tank features a floating stainless-steel lid that adjusts to the liquid level, ensuring no air is trapped between the product and cover. Combined with a conical base, the design facilitates total discharge and makes cleaning fast and efficient.
Manufactured from AISI 304 stainless steel, these silos are the benchmark for wineries and olive mills where maintaining product quality is crucial during storage or decanting. Optional accessories include a level indicator rod, floating arm, and adjustable support legs to guarantee perfect levelling.
| Capacity (L) | Height (mm) | Base (mm) | Opening (mm) | Total Height (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 300 | 940 | 640 | 640 | 1,340 |
| 400 | 1,020 | 700 | 700 | 1,420 |
| 500 | 1,170 | 740 | 740 | 1,570 |
| 750 | 1,480 | 800 | 800 | 1,880 |
| 1,000 | 1,480 | 930 | 930 | 1,880 |
| 1,500 | 1,500 | 1,100 | 1,100 | 2,300 |
| 2,000 | 1,500 | 1,270 | 1,270 | 2,300 |
| 2,500 | 2,000 | 1,270 | 1,270 | 2,500 |
| 3,000 | 2,000 | 1,430 | 1,430 | 2,500 |
| 5,000 | 2,500 | 1,600 | 1,600 | 3,100 |
Data sourced from the Sansone Stainless Steel Silos PDF (Variable Capacity Series). Floating-lid Sempre Pieno design ensures oxidation-free storage and total discharge.
Each unit can be equipped with steel air floating lids, anti-alcohol chambers, and stainless pump groups with double valves. From small-scale honey producers to major wineries, these variable-capacity silos provide safe, stable, and efficient storage control.
To complement the Sansone Storage Silos with Conical Base and Easy Discharge, a selection of optional accessories is available to enhance performance, hygiene, and adaptability in food production. These Italian-engineered accessories are constructed from the same AISI 304–316L stainless steel as the silos, ensuring seamless integration and durability under continuous use.
Typical accessories include:
The Variable Capacity Silos (Sempre Pieno) can be upgraded with a wide array of optional accessories designed to provide maximum flexibility for wineries, olive oil mills, and honey producers. These fittings optimise storage management, allowing precise level control, air exclusion, and convenient product transfer.
Common optional features include:













Every Sansone silo is a result of over 40 years of Italian innovation and craftsmanship. The company’s mission remains unchanged - to offer containers that protect both product quality and the planet.
With 100% recyclable stainless steel and exceptional longevity, Sansone silos not only reduce environmental impact but also deliver significant long-term value for producers. Through The Olive Centre, Australian customers can access the full range, local after-sales support, and expert advice on installation, maintenance, and compliance.
Whether you’re preserving the finest extra virgin olive oil or fermenting honey wine, Sansone’s silos deliver unmatched quality and reliability that will stand the test of time.
Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is extremely sensitive to light, oxygen, heat and metal contact. Packaging, therefore, plays a direct role in how long an olive oil remains “extra virgin.” Major reviews from UC Davis emphasise that optimal packaging must reduce light exposure, oxygen ingress, and headspace, while also ensuring cool storage. At the same time, producers—especially small to medium Australian growers—must consider costs, machinery requirements, recyclability, consumer preferences, and minimum order quantities (MOQ). Below is the most complete and updated comparison of all common packaging formats.
PET offers convenience and low cost but has moderate oxygen permeability and allows light penetration, which accelerates oxidation. A 2023 study showed PET-stored EVOO experienced higher acidity, peroxide values, UV oxidation indices and sensory degradation over 12 months—especially at elevated temperatures.
Migration of PET oligomers and antimony into oil is within regulatory limits, but increases under heat.
rPET has a lower carbon footprint than glass, but Australian recycling for PET varies by region.
Metal cans provide total light protection and excellent oxygen barrier characteristics. UC Davis stresses that lined cans effectively prevent metal migration and protect quality.
Compared with BIB, cans may show slightly faster oxidation when half-empty, but still protect oil well if stored cool. A 24-month study found both cans and BIB maintained EVOO within legal quality limits.
Steel and aluminium have high recycling rates in Australia.
Many producers prefer cans because Australian consumers are increasingly concerned about soft plastics, especially given the collapse of local soft-plastic recycling schemes (e.g., REDcycle).
Best for: Bulk, foodservice, premium oils, export, and producers who want reliability without specialised equipment.
Glass is chemically inert. Coloured glass offers some UV and visible light protection—amber performs better than green - but clear glass accelerates photo-oxidation significantly.
Coloured glass slows degradation but still allows some light through, so shelf lighting and storage conditions matter.
Highly recyclable, but heavy to transport. Bottle breakage is an inconvenience for producers.
Best for: Premium retail oils with attention to storage conditions.
Research shows clear glass provides almost no light protection, leading to rapid losses in phenolics and faster oxidation.
UC Davis warns that clear glass should be avoided unless heavily covered by labels or cartons.
Best for: Fast-moving products or promotional oils kept strictly in the dark.
Bag-in-box offers some of the best oxygen protection because the collapsing bag limits headspace oxygen, and the cardboard blocks light. Numerous studies, including 12- to 24-month trials, confirm superior preservation of phenolics, freshness, and sensory properties compared with bottles and cans.
Plastic contact and disposal concerns hinder adoption, despite technical superiority.
Best for: Large producers with dedicated filling lines, subscription models, or export markets where BIB is accepted.
BOV packaging uses a hermetically sealed internal pouch separated from an external propellant. The oil never contacts the propellant; instead, it is dispensed by pressure.
Best for: High-end culinary oils, premium lines, foodservice, and producers wanting differentiation without investing in BIB equipment.
| Packaging Type | Light Protection | Oxygen Protection | Machinery Required | Recyclability (Australia) | Cost | Consumer Acceptance | Best Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cans (lined) |
★★★★★
|
★★★★☆
|
Easy | High | Medium | High | Bulk, premium, foodservice |
| Bag-in-Box |
★★★★★
|
★★★★★
|
Specialised | Low (soft plastics) | High (at scale) | Medium–Low | Long shelf life, export |
| Coloured Glass |
★★★☆☆
|
★★★★★
|
Easy | High | Higher | Very High | Retail premium |
| Clear Glass |
★☆☆☆☆
|
★★★★★
|
Easy | High | Higher | High | Fast turnover only |
| PET Plastic |
★☆☆☆☆
|
★★☆☆☆
|
Easy | Moderate | Low | Medium | Value lines, short shelf life |
| Bag-on-Valve (BOV) |
★★★★★
|
★★★★★
|
Moderate | Low–Moderate | Higher | Medium–High | Premium spray oils |
Selecting the most suitable packaging for extra virgin olive oil hinges on finding the right balance between quality preservation, consumer expectations, and production practicality. Among all options, lined metal cans stand out as one of the most reliable and efficient choices: they are easy to fill by weight, offer excellent protection from light and oxygen, avoid consumer concerns around plastics, and are highly recyclable in Australia. Coloured glass bottles remain the strongest retail performer, pairing good product protection with strong shelf appeal and flexible filling options - from hand-applied caps to automated capping machines that minimise leakage risks. Clear glass should only be used for fast-moving products due to its poor light protection.
While innovative systems like bag-on-valve offer outstanding oxygen exclusion and controlled dispensing, their higher cost and MOQ requirements mean they are best suited for premium or specialised product lines. PET plastic bottles can work for value-oriented, short-shelf-life oils kept in cool, dark environments, but they are not ideal for long-term storage or premium markets.
Overall, Australian producers benefit most by matching each packaging format to the oil’s intended shelf life, sales channel, and brand positioning. Thoughtful packaging selection not only safeguards quality but also streamlines production and aligns with evolving consumer and environmental expectations.
References
Valuing your olive oil processing machinery – from presses and decanters to tractors and harvesters – is an important task for Australian producers. Whether you’re a small boutique grove or a commercial olive operation, knowing what your equipment is worth helps with insurance, resale, and financial planning. This guide explains how to value used olive oil processing machinery (with notes on new equipment costs), covers multiple valuation methods, and offers a practical Australian context. We’ll also include example scenarios (like a decade-old olive press vs. a nearly new separator) and provide tips to maintain your gear’s value over time.
Olive oil production involves specialised machinery at harvest and processing time. Key processing equipment includes olive crushers or mills (to crush olives into paste), malaxers (which slowly mix the paste), and centrifugal decanters/separators (which separate oil from water and solids). Supporting items like pumps, olive washers, and filtration units are also part of the system. Many Australian groves also use standard farm equipment such as tractors, mechanical harvesters, pruning and spraying equipment, and irrigation systems. When assessing value, focus first on the core olive oil machinery, but remember that methods discussed here apply to your tractors, harvesters, and other farm gear as well.
Modern olive processing machinery is a significant investment. For reference, a small continuous-flow olive mill (e.g. 30 kg/hour throughput) might cost around A$20,000 new, while a large commercial plant (capable of ~1 tonne/hour) can run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. Such figures underscore why proper valuation is essential – these assets represent major capital on the farm. Below, we outline several methods to evaluate what these machines are worth, especially as they age or when considering second-hand purchases.
Valuing used farm equipment is not an exact science – it’s often best to use multiple methods to triangulate a reasonable value. Common approaches include using depreciation schedules, comparing recent market sales, calculating value based on income or cost savings, considering insurance replacement cost, and accounting for residual (salvage) value. Each method gives a different perspective:
Depreciation is the loss in value of equipment as it ages. A simple way to estimate a used machine’s value is to start from its original cost and subtract depreciation. There are two main depreciation methods: straight-line (also called prime cost) and declining-balance (diminishing value). Straight-line depreciation assumes the asset loses value evenly over its useful life, while declining-balance depreciation assumes a higher loss in early years and less in later years.
For instance, if a small olive press was purchased new for $30,000 and has a 15-year life, straight-line depreciation would be ~6.67% per year (100/15). After 10 years (two-thirds of its life), it would be about 10 × 6.67% ≈ 66.7% depreciated. In simple terms, its book value might be roughly 33% of the original cost (around $10,000 in this example). This assumes no residual value; in practice, you might add a small salvage value (see Residual Value section) instead of depreciating to zero.
Example (Depreciation Method): You bought an olive mill for $100,000 new, which is now 10 years old. Using straight-line (15-year life), its book value would be roughly $100k × (5/15) = $33k remaining. Using diminishing value (13.33% yearly), its book value might be closer to $24k–$25k after 10 years. You could cite these as a range – perhaps saying the machine is “approximately $25k–$33k based on age” – then adjust up or down for condition. If your equipment’s been exceptionally well maintained or lightly used, it might fetch more than the book value; if it’s in rough shape, it could be less.
One of the most practical valuation methods is to see what the market is willing to pay for similar equipment. Check recent listings and sales of comparable olive oil machinery or farm equipment. In Australia, useful platforms include:
Example (Market Comparison): Suppose you own a 10-year-old press (same as above) and find two similar presses listed: one in NSW for $40k (fully serviced, ready for work) and one in SA for $30k (sold as-is, needs some repairs). If your machine is in good working order with maintenance records, the market approach might suggest a value in the high $30k’s. You’d then cross-check this against the $24k–$33k depreciation estimate – if the market seems to be paying a premium (perhaps due to a shortage of used presses), you might lean toward the upper end of the range. On the other hand, if no one is buying presses because many olive groves use custom processing services, you might have to price on the lower end to attract interest.
Another angle is to value equipment based on the income it produces or the savings it provides. This method essentially asks: How much is this machine worth to my farm’s profitability? There are a couple of ways to think about it:
Example (Income Approach): Consider a recently purchased separator (centrifuge) that cost $15,000 new and is only 2 years old. Depreciation might put it at $10k–$12k book value now. But you bought it to improve your oil quality and yield – and indeed, oil yields went up 5%, earning you an extra $5,000 in oil sales each year. If we assume it has at least 8 years of life left, that’s potentially $40k additional income coming. Even discounting future years, the value-in-use of that separator might be on the order of $30k. Of course, no one would pay $30k for a used unit when a new one is $15k, but this tells you that for your own insurance, you might want it covered for replacement cost, and that selling it would only make sense if you exit the business or get a bigger unit. In other words, the ROI approach here tells you the separator is “worth more to me on the farm than to anyone buying it,” so you’d hold onto it unless necessary.
From an insurance perspective, valuation is about ensuring you could replace the equipment if it’s damaged or lost. There are two main concepts used by insurers:
Where to find replacement costs? Contact dealers or check current price lists for the closest equivalent new model. For instance, if your 2008 olive mill is no longer sold, find the price of the current model with a similar capacity. Don’t forget to include freight to your location and installation costs in the replacement figure, as a new machine often involves these. In Australia, companies like The Olive Centre or Olive Agencies can provide quotes for new machinery. We saw earlier that small Oliomio units started around $19.5k a few years back – those prices can guide insurance values for hobby-scale equipment. For larger systems, get a formal quote if possible, since custom setups vary widely.
Also, consider partial loss scenarios: insurance may cover repairs. If you have an older machine, parts might be scarce, so even repairs could approach replacement cost. This is another reason some farmers insure older critical items for replacement cost if they can.
Tip: Document your equipment’s details (serial numbers, specs) and keep evidence of its condition. In an insurance assessment, having maintenance logs, photos, and appraisals can support your valuation. Insurers might depreciate based on a generic schedule, but if you can show your press was fully refurbished last year, you have a case for a higher value. As one farm insurer explains, typically anything over ~8–10 years might only get ACV coverage. If your gear is older but in mint condition or has an ongoing role generating income, discuss options with your insurer – you might opt for a higher agreed value or a policy rider for replacement.
No matter which method you use, don’t forget that machinery usually has some residual value at the end of its useful life. This could be as spare parts, scrap metal, or a second life in a lower-intensity setting. Incorporating residual value prevents undervaluing the asset (and avoids over-depreciating on paper).
When valuing for sale, you might actually set your asking price near the salvage floor if the item is very old. This makes the offering attractive to bargain hunters while ensuring you recover at least scrap value. On the flip side, if you’re buying used equipment, be wary of prices that are at or below typical scrap value – it could indicate the machine is only good for parts.
In summary, always account for the “leftover” value. For insurance, that might not matter (since a total loss is a total loss), but for appraisals and decisions like trading in vs. running to failure, knowing the salvage value helps. For example, if a decanter’s internals are shot, it might still have a salvage value of $5,000 for the stainless steel. That $5k is effectively the bottom-line value no matter what.
Example (Residual Value): You have a 15-year-old tractor that’s been fully depreciated on your books. However, it still runs and could be a backup or sold to a small farm. Checking online, you see similar 80 HP tractors from the mid-2000s selling for around $15,000. That’s the residual market value. Even if you only get $10k due to some issues, that’s far above scrap metal value (maybe a few thousand). Therefore, in your valuation, you wouldn’t list the tractor as $0 – you’d acknowledge, say, a $12k residual value in fair condition. This logic applies to olive equipment too: an old olive washer or oil storage tank might be fully written off in accounts, but it has residual usefulness that someone will pay for.
Each method has its strengths. The table below summarises and compares these approaches:
Each method yields a piece of the puzzle. In practice, when preparing a valuation (for example, for a financial statement or an insurance schedule), you might list multiple figures: “Depreciated value: $X; Likely market value: $Y; Replacement cost: $Z.” This gives a range and context rather than a single uncertain number
Let’s apply the above methods to two concrete scenarios to see how they complement each other:
Scenario 1: Valuing a 10-Year-Old Olive Oil Press
Background: You purchased a medium-sized olive oil press (continuous centrifugal system) 10 years ago for $100,000. It has been used each harvest, processing around 50 tonnes of olives per year. It’s well-maintained, though out of warranty now. You are considering upgrading to a newer model and want to determine a fair sale price or insurance value.
Scenario 2: Valuing a Nearly New Separator (Centrifuge)
Background: You bought a new centrifugal separator (vertical centrifuge for polishing oil) 1 year ago for $20,000. It’s a high-speed clarifier that improves oil quality. Unfortunately, you’re now restructuring your operations and might sell this unit. It’s in “as-new” condition. How to value it?
Valuing farm equipment in Australia comes with some local considerations that can affect prices and depreciation. Here are a few factors particularly relevant to Aussie olive producers:
Depending on your goal – insuring the asset, selling it, or accounting for it – you’ll approach valuation with a slightly different mindset and requirements. Here’s how to handle each:
By implementing the above steps, you not only retain the value of your olive oil machinery but can enhance it relative to similar-aged units on the market. A well-maintained 15-year-old olive press could outperform a neglected 10-year-old press, and its value would reflect that. Many buyers would rather pay more for the former, knowing it was cared for. Good maintenance is like money in the bank for equipment value.
Specialised machinery like over-the-row olive harvesters can hold their value well if maintained, though hours of use and local demand are key factors. For instance, the Colossus harvester pictured (built in Mildura, VIC) had logged about 7,735 hours – yet with components rebuilt and good upkeep, it remains a sought-after asset for large groves. When valuing such equipment, consider service history (e.g. newly rebuilt conveyors or engines), as major refurbishments can extend useful life significantly. Heavy machinery also benefits from many of the tips above: regular cleaning (clearing out olive leaves and dust), timely engine servicing (as per John Deere engine schedules in this case), and storing under cover in off-season all help preserve value. Usage hours are akin to mileage on a car – they directly impact value, but how those hours were accumulated (easy flat terrain vs. rough use) also matters. Keeping detailed records (hours of use per season, any downtime issues resolved) will support a higher valuation when selling to the next operator.
Finally, don’t underestimate the value of operational knowledge and support documents. If you’re handing off a complex piece of gear, providing training to the buyer or passing along your notes (like ideal settings for different olive varieties, or a log of any quirks in the machine and how to manage them) can make your item more attractive, thereby supporting your asking price. It’s not a tangible “value” in dollars, but it eases the sale and might tip a buyer to choose your machine over another.
Valuing olive oil processing machinery and farm equipment requires blending hard numbers with practical insight. By using depreciation formulas, checking market prices, considering the machine’s contribution to your farm, and factoring in replacement costs, you can arrive at a well-supported valuation range. Always adjust for the realities of the Australian market – our distances, climate, and industry size mean context is key. And remember, the way you care for and present your equipment can significantly sway its value.
Whether you’re insuring your olive press, selling a used tractor, or just updating your asset register for the accountant, a thoughtful valuation will pay off. It ensures you neither leave money on the table nor hold unrealistic expectations. Use the following checklist as a guide whenever you undertake a machinery valuation:
Valuation Checklist for Olive Machinery & Farm Equipment:
Valuing farm equipment is part art and part science. The science comes from formulas and data; the art comes from experience and understanding of how your machinery fits into the bigger picture. With the guidelines above, you have tools from both domains at your disposal. Happy valuing – and may your olive machinery serve you efficiently and profitably throughout its life!
Sources
CONSUMER EDUCATION
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) is often hailed as a “liquid gold” in kitchens around the world – a term famously used by the ancient Greek poet Homer. For Australians, EVOO is more than just an ingredient; it’s a heart-healthy cooking staple and a link to centuries of Mediterranean tradition. This guide will explain exactly what EVOO is and how it differs from other olive oils, how it’s produced (from grove to bottle), its science-backed health benefits, and the many ways you can use it – both in your cooking and beyond. Along the way, we’ll share some interesting facts that highlight why this oil has been prized since antiquity. Let’s dive in!
By contrast, other grades of olive oil are lower in quality or more processed:
In summary, EVOO stands apart from other olive oils because it’s unrefined, of top sensory quality, and packed with natural compounds. If you drizzle a good EVOO on a salad or taste it on a spoon, you’ll notice a bright, complex flavour – something you won’t get from the flat, one-note taste of refined “olive oil” blends.
EVOO’s journey from tree to bottle is a fascinating combination of ancient tradition and modern food science. It all starts in the olive groves. Olives destined for high-quality EVOO are often hand-picked or gently shaken off trees (modern farms may use mechanical harvesters that vibrate the trunks or use catching frames). The timing of harvest is crucial: early in the season, when olives are green to purplish, they yield less oil, but it’s very rich in flavour and antioxidants; later harvest (ripe black olives) yields more oil but with mellower taste. Many premium Australian producers, much like those in the Mediterranean, opt for early harvest to maximise quality.
Once picked, speed is key – olives are quickly transported to the mill, because freshly harvested olives start to oxidise and ferment if they sit too long. Ideally, olives are pressed within 24 hours of harvest to prevent quality loss. At the mill, the olives are washed to remove leaves and dust, then crushed (pits and all) by either traditional stone mills or modern steel crushers. This creates an olive paste, which is then gently malaxed (slowly churned) for 20–45 minutes. Malaxation allows tiny oil droplets to coalesce, but it’s done under strict temperature control – this is where the term “cold-pressed” or “cold extraction” comes in. To qualify as cold-pressed, no heat above 27 °C is applied during extraction. Keeping the paste cool preserves aromatic compounds and nutrients; higher temperatures could extract a bit more oil, but at the cost of flavour and antioxidants. Australian and European producers alike adhere to this, as heat can reduce EVOO’s polyphenols and vitamin E (and increase oxidation)

A Roman-era olive oil press in Capernaum, Israel. Ancient presses used large millstones to crush olives, and the oil was separated by gravity. Today, modern cold-pressing uses centrifuge extractors, but the goal remains the same – to physically squeeze oil from olives without chemicals or high heat, preserving quality. (photograph of a Roman-era olive mill in Capernaum)
After malaxation, the paste is pressed or, more commonly, centrifuged. Modern mills use a decanter centrifuge, which rapidly spins the olive paste to separate oil from water and olive solids. The result is fresh olive oil (plus some vegetable water). The oil may then be filtered or simply left to settle so that tiny particles and moisture drop out over time. Some artisan oils are unfiltered, yielding a cloudy appearance, but most commercial EVOOs are filtered for clarity and stability. Finally, the oil is stored in stainless steel tanks (ideally with minimal air exposure) and later bottled.
Throughout production, maintaining quality is paramount. At no point are solvents or refining used – EVOO is purely a natural juice. This careful process explains why EVOO is more expensive than generic cooking oil: it takes a lot of olives and care to produce. In fact, it typically takes around 4 to 6 kilograms of olives to cold-extract just 1 litre of EVOO (for some early harvest oils, even more). That represents roughly 8000–10,000 individual olives in each litre of premium oil! Such figures help us appreciate the effort and agricultural value inside each bottle of EVOO.
Australian EVOO note: Australia may be far from the Mediterranean, but it has a burgeoning olive oil industry of its own. Olives were first brought to Australia in the 1800s, and the industry remained small until a boom in the late 20th century. The Australian olive industry is over 150 years old, but it has expanded rapidly across all mainland states in recent decades. Today, Australia produces high-quality EVOOs, particularly in regions with Mediterranean-like climates (such as parts of South Australia, Victoria, and Western Australia). Aussie EVOOs often win awards for their robust flavours and purity, thanks to modern farming and milling techniques. So when you shop, know that some EVOO on the shelf – in addition to imports from Italy, Spain, Greece, etc. – is grown and pressed right here in Australia.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil isn’t just a tasty fat – it’s exceptionally good for you. Its health benefits are backed by a wealth of scientific research and have even been recognised by international health authorities. Here are some of the top evidence-based benefits:
Lastly, remember that EVOO is a fat and thus calorie-dense, so use it in place of other fats rather than simply adding on (to balance overall energy intake). But as fats go, EVOO is about the best you can choose for your health. It’s no surprise the Australian Dietary Guidelines and Heart Foundation include olive oil as a core part of a healthy eating pattern, encouraging people to swap butter and animal fats for olive or other plant oils. EVOO isn’t a miracle cure-all, but it is a potent, natural contributor to wellness – and a delicious one at that!
One of the beauties of EVOO is its culinary versatility. You can use it raw, you can cook with it, you can even bake with it. Here are some popular ways to integrate EVOO into your daily diet, along with tips particularly suited for Australian kitchens:
Drizzling extra virgin olive oil over a salad of avocado, tomato, and greens. Incorporating EVOO into daily meals can be as simple as using it to dress salads, dip bread, or finish cooked dishes – adding both flavor and healthy fats to the Australian diet.
Quick recipe ideas:
Olive oil’s usefulness goes far beyond food. Throughout history, olive oil has been used in daily life in myriad ways – and many of these uses are still relevant or just plain handy today. Here are some nonculinary applications of olive oil:
As you can see, a bottle of olive oil in the cupboard can double as a mini home remedy kit! One caveat: for non-food uses, you don’t necessarily need to use your finest extra virgin oil – a basic grade or older bottle that you don’t want to cook with can find a second life polishing your coffee table or deep-conditioning your hair. Food-grade olive oil for beauty and home use means you’re avoiding the petrochemicals found in some commercial products, which is a win for those with sensitive skin or who prefer eco-friendly options.
To round out our EVOO guide, here are some fun facts and bits of trivia that make olive oil even more fascinating:
Extra Virgin Olive Oil is truly a kitchen all-star – it elevates our food and supports our health. We’ve learned that EVOO differs from lesser olive oils in quality and production, coming straight from fresh olives without chemicals or refining. We’ve seen how it’s made, preserving its sensory and nutritional treasures. Science shows that incorporating EVOO into your diet can benefit your heart, reduce inflammation, and even help you enjoy your veggies more (because they taste better with a good drizzle!). And beyond cooking, olive oil proves its worth in our beauty routines and households.
For Australian consumers, the message is embrace EVOO: use it in your salad dressings, swap it for butter when you can, try it in new recipes – both traditional Mediterranean dishes and local Aussie favourites. With Australian olive oil production on the rise, you might even explore home-grown EVOOs, which can be world-class. Remember to store it well, use it generously but mindfully, and appreciate the story behind it – from ancient olive groves to your dinner table.
In summary, Extra Virgin Olive Oil is more than an ingredient; it’s a lifestyle choice towards better eating and living. So go ahead – enjoy that splash of liquid gold in your meals every day, and taste the difference it makes!
References (selected):