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ATCS Tree Sealant – Tree Wound Dressing & Grafting Sealant

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ATCS Tree Sealant – Tree Wound Dressing & Grafting Sealant

Delivery will be calculated separately

Professional white acrylic tree wound sealant for pruning, grafting and long-term plant protection.

A.T.C.S White Acrylic Wound Sealant is a professional-grade tree wound dressing developed by an experienced tree surgeon seeking a safer and more reliable alternative to traditional bitumen-based sealants. Unlike older products that crack, peel and expose wounds, this advanced water-based acrylic formulation creates a flexible, durable and weather-resistant protective coating. It forms a waterproof and UV-stable barrier that expands and contracts with temperature changes, helping trees heal naturally while protecting against fungi, pests and disease.

Main use of this product

This wound sealant is designed for sealing and protecting pruning cuts, graft unions, cracks and wounds on trees, shrubs, bonsai and vines. It provides year-round protection by maintaining a continuous seal that adapts to seasonal heat and cold, keeping exposed plant tissue healthy and protected.

Why choose A.T.C.S tree wound dressing

Gardeners, arborists and orchard growers choose A.T.C.S because it delivers professional performance without the drawbacks of bitumen products. Its non-toxic, solvent-free, water-based formulation is safe for plants, easy to apply directly from the can, and simple to clean up with water. It is ideal for fruit trees, ornamental plants and older trees requiring dependable, long-term wound protection.
 

A.T.C.S White Acrylic Wound Sealant – Technical Specifications

Specification Details
Product type Tree wound dressing & grafting sealant
Base formulation Water-based acrylic
Colour White
Toxicity Non-toxic, solvent-free
Flexibility Expands and contracts with temperature changes
Weather resistance Waterproof and UV stable
Application method Brush-on, straight from the can
Clean-up Water clean-up

Application guidelines

Ensure the wound or cut surface is clean and dry. Apply the sealant generously with a paintbrush directly from the can, fully covering the exposed area. Allow to dry naturally. Clean brushes with water immediately after use.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
A.T.C.S White Acrylic Wound Sealant is used to protect pruning cuts, graft unions, cracks and wounds on trees, shrubs, vines and bonsai. It forms a protective barrier that helps prevent moisture ingress and protects against fungi, pests and disease while the plant heals.
Unlike bitumen sealants that can crack and peel over time, this acrylic formulation expands and contracts with temperature changes. This flexibility helps maintain a continuous seal, providing more reliable long-term protection for plant wounds.
Yes. A.T.C.S White Acrylic Wound Sealant is non-toxic, solvent-free and water-based, making it safer for plants and easier for users to apply and clean up compared to traditional solvent-based products.
Yes. The sealant is waterproof and UV stable, and its flexible acrylic coating adapts to seasonal heat and cold, making it suitable for year-round outdoor use.


 
General main key features

• Flexible acrylic coating that won’t crack or peel
• Protects against fungi, pests and disease
• Non-toxic, solvent-free and plant safe
• Easy brush-on application
• Water clean-up and UV-stable finish
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What causes bark splitting in olive trees?

The fungal disease Armillaria is responsible for the "white rot" root disease.The Armillaria fungus damages the root system.The fungus survives in the soil until the infected root breaks down. Characteristic white fan-shaped mycelial mats can be seen growing on the wood when the rotting bark is peeled back. Freshly infected roots have a strong mushroom smell. The wood of infected roots is rotted by the fungus, becoming either white and powdery ..
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Pruning & Staking Young Olive Trees for Mechanical Harvesting



PRUNING & STAKING YOUNG OLIVE TREES

FOR MECHANICAL HARVESTING

The information is supplied as a guide for during the first two years after planting olive trees between approximately 300mm (1 ft) and 1.5 metres (5 ft) in height. During this fast growth period the trees require specific pruning to maximise their growth, keep them in good health, and very importantly, prepare them for mechanical harvesting. Before pruning you should choose which style of harvesting you prefer and prune accordingly.

The briefness of this sheet cannot give all the answers and options but it does give a basic guide to pruning and staking during the first couple of years.

Whenever you are pruning a young olive tree there are four main points to keep in mind:

  1. Too much pruning at a young age will stunt the tree's growth.
  2. You are ultimately wanting to prune for mechanically harvesting the crop.
  3. A central leader trunk will assist growth in the early stages.
  4. Practice makes perfect!

Let's take a closer look at these points.


1. Olive trees are like human beings in many ways and in no way are they so similar as in the pruning. It's as simple as this:

A human can afford to lose an arm or even a leg and
still live reasonably well BUT if you lose both arms and both legs
at the same time, you're in trouble! - SO IS AN OLIVE TREE.

If your young tree is 900mm (3 ft) tall and has side branches growing all the way up its trunk DO NOT take them ALL off just because you've read that you need a clean straight trunk for 1.0 to 1.2 metres.

At first, only take off any that are growing below 300mm (1 ft) and then in several months time when the tree has grown considerably more on top, and has 'recovered' from the first pruning, you can take off any branches between 300mm and 600mm (1-2 ft). Repeat this process until finally after about two years, you have your clean straight trunk for 1.0 to 1.2 metres. Don't make the mistake of pruning 'too much too soon'. This can send the young tree into 'shock' and set it back by up to a full year. Always leave large amounts of leaf on the tree for photosynthesis to take place so that maximum root growth etc will occur.



2. Mechanical harvesting is the most efficient method of removing fruit from olive trees. Whereas oil olives have been the only mechanically harvested olives for many years, table fruit are now sometimes dropping into catching umbrellas in countries around the world, including Australia. Unless you have made a clear decision to hand harvest your fruit, to neglect pruning for future mechanical harvesting in the modern orchard may be a serious error from a long term economic viewpoint.

So what shape of tree do we need for mechanical harvesting? The most important requirement is a straight trunk for 1.0 to 1.2 metres (3'4"-4 ft) from the ground. This section of trunk must finally be free from all branches to allow the harvester's head to securely grip the trunk without any obstruction. This will allow the harvester to work more quickly and will also avoid damage to the tree.

Achieving this straight clean trunk occurs over about 18 months to two years. Initially, when the tree is only 300mm to 600mm (1-2 ft) tall you simply need to remove any branches which want to grow off the trunk below 300mm (1 ft) from the ground. Other branches above 300mm (1 ft) can be left to grow or, if they try to grow larger and faster than your main leader, they can have their tips removed to slow down their growth - thus allowing more nutrients to be focussed into the leader. This clearing will make it easier for weed spraying and will also allow the tree to focus all of its growth into the main 'leader' trunk and some higher lateral branches. At no stage should any growth touch the ground. In the early years, it is important to leave as much growth as possible on the tree because foliage promotes root growth which in turn promotes the production of more foliage.

Some trees will develop with a 'leader' (trunk) going straight up the centre with small side branches. Others will head straight for the sky as a single trunk with no side branches. Both cases are fine, but with single trunks you will need to nip off the growing tip at about 1.2-1.3m (48-50") to encourage side or lateral branches to grow at this place. It is these lateral branches that will form the main structure of your mature tree.

Mature olive trees need to be kept reasonably open in the centre to allow light penetration for better tree health and fruit production. This is best achieved through a vase shaped, sturdy growth habit which also facilitates mechanical harvesting. Your trees will probably have quite a number of lateral branches at about one metre or so from the ground when the tree is 18 months of age. Thoughtfully choose out four evenly spaced lateral branches. These need not all come from exactly the same height but should not be any lower than 800mm from the ground. As these will form the vase framework for your tree, if possible choose branches that are growing at least 30 degrees up from horizontal. This will give a vase rather than a flat plate shaped tree structure. Remove the other growth as outlined below.

If your main leader is damaged or slow growing for some reason then you may choose to allow a faster growing side branch to become the new leader. Simply remove the old leader from the stake and tie the new leader to it. (A bit like politics!)

When the tree is between 900mm and 1200mm (3-4 ft) tall, and if it has plenty of leafy branches towards its top, you can remove the branches which are growing from the trunk between 300mm and 600mm (1-2 ft) from the ground. You should now have a tree with a straight clean trunk to 600mm (2 ft) and a nice number of branches above 600mm (2 ft). If your tree is over 1200mm (4 ft) high then you can remove the tips of any branches that leave the trunk between 600mm and 900mm (2-3 ft). (Don't forget BODY TALK's advice - if there aren't many branches between 900mm and 1200mm (3-4 ft) then don't cut too heavily at this stage).

Several months after you have done the last step of pruning above, you can remove any of the final branches up to about one metre (3'4"). Your trunk is now clean to the desired height for machine harvesting and yet you still have about four evenly spaced solid branches at the top of the tree to keep root growth to a maximum. Depending on variety, land preparation and climate this whole pruning cycle from a 300mm (1 ft) tall tree to a solidly trunked tree which is branching well on top should take about eighteen months to two years.



STAKING YOUR TREE



The staking of young olive trees is very important. Stakes need to be strong enough to support the tree while the anchor roots are developing, and yet flexible enough to allow the tree to move in the wind. If the stake is too rigid or the tree tied too tightly to it, then the tree will be over protected and not feel the need to develop strong roots.

The most common size stake to use was the 1.5 metre (5 ft) high, 24-26mm thick. Thicker stakes are available for sandy soils: 1.8m (7ft) high, 25-28mm.

The bamboo stakes have some advantages over hardwood stakes as they have as they allow the tree to flex in the wind thereby encouraging the tree to develop a thick trunk and also to develop its anchor roots quickly. A tree rigidly tied to an unbending hardwood stake will not realise the need to develop its anchor roots strongly.

Sourcing Stakes - for further details and pricing for Stakes are available from The Olive Centre.

After about two years at which point the tree probably will no longer need staking. It is rare for a tree to need any support after it has outgrown such a stake.

Place the stake about 50mm (2") from the base of the tree and push it into the soil at least 300mm vertically until it feels quite stable. A better option is to use the stakes to mark your tree sites prior to planting and then simply plant the trees beside them. You can then tie both the young tree and its small nursery stake to the main stake with a tool such as the tapener described below. (There is no need to cut off the the tapes between the young tree and its nursery stake as they will break away naturally as the tree trunk thickens.)

After planting and staking the tree, the stake will prove to be a good solid anchor point to attach protective guards or netting to if you have severe animal problems and do not have a full netting fence around the boundary of your orchard.

Tying the Tree - From our experience with tying methods over many years, we have found that the tape tying tools available from The Olive Centre are an excellent investment. The taping tool is very fast and efficient and if you have a number of trees to tie, you will get the cost of your tool back very quickly in saved time. When you order your tool Full Staking Kits are available which include a packet of staples, a packet of spare cutter blades, and unless you have very thick trunks, the 26 metre rolls of tape will be what you'll use.

After testing many brands of tape, we recommend the high quality, green tape. As the tree trunk grows thicker it will be better able to support itself without so much need for the stake. As the trunk thickens, the tape will stretch and naturally tear out at the staple point so it will not strangle the tree as some ties do. For windy areas other heavy duty tree ties are available.



3. A central leader trunk will help to speed up your tree's growth during the early years. Because this trunk will be fast growing and always growing upwards in the centre of your tree, it will be drawing nutrients up through the tree to sustain its growth. As it draws these nutrients up the tree, the nutrients will be carried to lower branches and thereby increase their speed of growth as well. The central leader acts as a type of 'nutrient pump' within the tree. (If your tree decides to grow straight up without any lateral (side) branches, nip the growing tip out when it reaches about 1.2 - 1.3 metres (4 ft). This will force it to start lateral branching into your vase shape.)

What we have finally achieved is a young tree with approximately four main scaffold branches. The shape is commonly known as an Inverted Conical Vase.

As mentioned in the introduction, this is not a conclusive pruning guide. It only touches on the basics of pruning young trees with what are considered the most commercially viable methods.



4. Practice Makes Perfect! Olive trees have a mind of their own and as such they will sometimes fight against many of your efforts to prune them into shape. Don't give up. Perseverance wins the race. Remember that time is on your side. A tree that won't grow correctly this season can often be restaked and then pruned into shape next season.

Verticillium Wilt Explained!

INFORMATION SHEET - PEST & DISEASES

Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt is a soil-borne fungus disease caused by the organism known as Verticillium dahliae.  Verticillium wilt can kill trees and is difficult or impossible to control and is considered a serious disease in olive trees.

SYMPTOMS

Symptoms of Verticillium wilt appear when leaves on one or more branches of the tree suddenly wilt early in the growing season; this process intensifies as the season progresses. Death of mature trees infected with Verticillium is possible. Darkening of xylem tissue, a key symptom for distinguishing Verticillium wilt in many crops, is frequently not apparent in olives.

COMMENTS ON THE DISEASE

The fungus survives from season to season in the soil and probably in the roots of infected trees. In early summer the fungus can be readily isolated from diseased tissue in infected trees. Verticillium wilt tends to be most troublesome in the southern San Joaquin Valley.

MANAGEMENT

The most effective management strategies to protect trees from Verticillium wilt are those taken before planting. When considering a new site for an olive grove, avoid land that has been planted for a number of years to crops that are highly susceptible to Verticillium wilt, such as cotton, eggplant, peppers, potato, or tomato. The Verticillium wilt pathogen is usually present in these soils.

Inoculum levels can be reduced before planting by fumigating the soil, soil solarization, flooding the fields during summer, growing several seasons of grass cover crops (especially rye or sudangrass) or a combination of these treatments. When replanting in an area where susceptible perennials were previously grown, remove as many roots of the trees or vines as possible. A resistant rootstock is not available, although some tolerance has been reported in the cultivar Ascolano.

After trees have been planted, no reliable method of control have been developed. Soil fumigation and soil solarization have provided inconsistent control in established plantings.

Soil Solarization. Beginning in late spring cover the surface of an entire block with transparent plastic that has a UV-inhibitor additive. Leave the plastic on throughout the summer and as long as practical. Inferior plastic will break down and render the treatment ineffective. Solarization gives inconsistent results when used in replant spots.

Soil Fumigation. Dry soil by withholding water during summer and using cover crops not susceptible to Verticillium wilt, such as sudangrass. The drier the soil, the better for deep penetration of methyl bromide. Deep-till the area after drying. If the soil is dusty, wait for an early rain before ripping and fumigating. Ripping a dry soil that is silty can result in large clods on the surface. Inject methyl bromide 18 to 30 inches deep with chisels and cover with gas-proof cover. Increasing the dose tends to increase the depth of penetration, but it cannot be relied upon to penetrate wet soils, especially if soils are high in clay. Do not remove the cover for at least 2 weeks and aerate 1 month before planting. Treatments may be made from late summer to early fall. In tree crops, methyl bromide often gives inconsistent control.

What is Olive Tree Girdling & Cincturing?

INFORMATION SHEET - THE OLIVE CENTRE

What is Girdling & Cincturing in Olive Trees

Girdling is a readily used practice in citrus and stone fruit orchards where it is typically used as a technique to increase fruit size.

Biennial bearing can be a serious problem in olive trees which can result in heavy crop losses to producers.  Under non-irrigated conditions, yields can fall substantially or drop to zero making the production year uneconomical to harvest.  Girdling may be a practice if done under the right conditions and timing could increase the production of an olive tree.

What does Girdling or cincturing involve?

Girdling also known as cincturing which is a horticultural practice involving eliminating up to a 1.5cm strip of bark around the trunk to stop the translocation of photosynthates to the root system.  A girdling knife or cincturing tool is used to cut the bark of the olive tree.



Researchers in Israel*  found that 15mm scaffolds covered with CaCO3 mineral oil and wax or PVC cover were most effective in facilitating wound healing.  PVC treatment was more rapid in wound healing.   During the first prevailing year after girdling found a 40% in increase yield.  Another study from Spain~ that looked into optimal widths and timing found that removing a 15mm band of bark 30 days before full bloom increased the fruit weight from 3.9g in the ungirdled trial to 4.7g.

Wounds with untreated scaffolds in the Israel study saw a drop in yield.

The width of the scaffold and healing duration as well as the time of year in which the girdling was carried out all had bearing on an increase or decrease in production.  The Israel study found that girdling olive trees increased the yield in the season following treatment with later girdling causing an increase in fruit set only.

Several scaffolds were used in the studies from 30mm to 5mm where the 5mm girdles were reported to heal too quickly and had no effect on increased production.

It was also noted that trees that were about to produce a high yield did not respond to girdling and in some cases actually reduced the yield.  Long-term studies need to be conducted to ascertain if alternate scaffold girdling should be considered.

The studies were interesting because there is potential that girdling practiced correctly in an olive grove may have a positive outcome for increased yield output however, the width of the girdle, healing timing, and time of year need to be taken into account when considering employing this technique in a commercial grove and can also have a positive effect on production in the alternate bearing years.


* STUDY

Girdling olive trees, a partial solution to biennial bearing. I. Methods, timing, and direct tree response

*S. Lavee, A Hadkal, Y Ben Tal

Department ofOiei and Viticulture, ARO, Volcani Center, Bet Dagan, Israel

ABSTRACT

The effect of scaffold girdling on the productivity of olive trees was studied on four cultivars grown under intensive irrigated conditions. Girdling increased the yield when done in midwinter (December-February) and to a lesser extent in April. A girdling width of 10-15 mm covered with PVC tape was most effective and promoted rapid healing. Uncovered girdling wounds healed very slowly, with a resultant decline of the scaffold. Girdling increased both inflorescence formation and fruit set. With cv Manzanillo young scaffolds were more responsive than old ones. The responses of different scaffolds on the same tree to girdling were independent of each other. The degree of response of a scaffold to girdling depended on the potential yield of the scaffold in the year of treatment. No direct prevailing effect of the girdling on of the following year's yield was noted.  

Read the full study:  Girdling olive trees, a partial solution to biennial bearing. I. Methods, timing and direct tree response: Journal of Horticultural Science: Vol 58, No 2

~ STUDY

Olive tree girdling: optimum timing and width

López-Rivares, E. P. ;  Suárez-García, M. P.

Escuela Universitaria de Ingeniería Técnica Agrícola, Seville, Spain.

ABSTRACT

Six-year-old multi-trunk olive trees (cv. Manzanilla) growing under controlled irrigation in an 'off' year were girdled at monthly intervals from 15 Dec. to 15 Apr., removing 10 mm-wide rings of bark. In a separate trial, trees of the same cultivar growing under similar conditions were girdled by removing a 5-, 10- or 15-mm-wide ring of bark in Apr., i.e. a month before full bloom. Ungirdled trees served as controls. Girdling date had no significant effect on either flowering or fruit set. Removing a 15-mm-band of bark at 30 days before full bloom increased individual fruit weight from 3.9 g in the ungirdled control to 4.7 g.

Read the full study:  Olive tree girdling: optimum timing and widths.

Olive Tree Plant Pathology

If you have a strange happening in your grove and it is a task for Plant Pathology, please contact directly;

[caption id="attachment_178" align="alignnone" width="300"]len-tesoriero-300x300 Dr Len Tesoriero Senior Plant Pathologist, Biosecurity Research[/caption]

Len Tesoriero is a plant pathologist who researches diseases of horticultural crops. He has a strong interest in protecting Australian horticulture's biosecurity through accurate diagnostic support and surveillance for exotic disease threats.

CONTACT DETAILS:

Dr Len Tesoriero Senior Plant Pathologist, Bio-security Research

NSW Department of Primary Industries

PH: ?02 4348 1944

FAX: ?02 4348 1910

Email: ?len.tesoriero@industry.nsw.gov.au

Website: ??www.dpi.nsw.gov.au

dpi-logo-2col-rgb-300x75

*** Please check with the lab for an up-to-date cost before sending your sample; it is around $150 + GST

See more about Pest & Diseases

See more about olive and the relationship with ?NSW DPI