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The teeth on Silky Saws are like super sharp little chisels that are dragged across the surface of a branch with each chisel taking a bite out of the wood it is cutting. Using Japanese ingenuity, saws cut on the pull stroke and to stop the saws binding they developed a process that is called among other things, taper or hollow grinding. What they did was get a big round grinding stone and ground their saw blades so the thickest part of the blade was at the teeth and it tapered into the middle of the blade and then thickened slightly to the top of the blade. This meant that the blade was thickest at the teeth, less thick at the top and thinnest in the middle. The grinding technique produced a saw that allowed a thinner saw to cut through a branch quicker, without binding.
When you cut green wood with a Silky Saw or pruning saws and Secateurs, you are going to get sap on the blade area. The more you cut, the more sap you are going to get a build-up of and it's most noticeable in the middle (from top to bottom) of the saw blade. Remember how the middle of the blade is the thinnest part of the blade. It is easier for the sap to stick there as it isn?t being rubbed against as much. So that night, you put the saw back in the scabbard and pick it up again the next day and do some more pruning and shaping of trees and bushes. Overnight the sap dries and hardens and is easier for the sap to stick to the blade again the next day... so the process continues. Soon you think your saws are getting blunt because it is much harder than when you first purchased to cut through a branch. With all the sap build-up, you are trying to pull a blade through a cut that is now thinner than the blade with its sap build-up.
The solution is 2 minutes of TLC for your saw blades at the end of the day with the Saw Cleaner solution. This anti-bacterial organic oil spray based on Tea Tree Oil is the solution for removing sap from Saw blades and sticky substances. We use it, we swear by it and we have used it to make sap covered Saws and Secateurs look and cut like new again.? ?View before and after images above.
Sap build up is often mistaken for blade dullness, but it is actually the main cause of reduced cutting performance in pruning saws and secateurs. Because the blade is thinnest in the middle, sap easily accumulates, hardens, and increases friction, making cutting more difficult while also increasing the risk of rust and corrosion.
Using the Saw Cleaner – Tea Tree Environmental Solution 100 mL Spray helps remove sap and resin, reduce bacteria and mould, and protect blades from rust. Regular cleaning with this natural tea tree–based formula supports tool hygiene, maintains sharp cutting performance, and extends the life of pruning equipment.
The F3020 Electrocoup Electric Pruner
INFACO is proud to present the latest, most technologically advanced electric shears on the market.
The Electrocoup F3020 offers a technologically advanced secateur packed with a multitude of features.
The F3020 Electrocoup weighs less and is more compact, which offers improved efficiency and faster-cutting speed, making the new generation F3020 a total advancement in features. The separate battery and shear design ensures the handpiece has minimal weight, maximising ergonomics, reducing fatigue, and providing a streamlined, efficient day of pruning.
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The Electrocoup F3020 pruners are now fitted with some of the most hi-tech and powerful microcontrollers in the market that are used in mobile phones and computer technology. This technology results in improved user function and innovation, enabling more data to be compiled and analysed by the pruning shear to improve the F3020 performance.
Progressive Blade Advance at Full Speed (+15% vs F3015)
The Standard mode is for experienced users and for those who are willing to take full advantage of the tool's increased cutting speed capabilities.
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Progressive Blade Advance is at a slightly reduced speed
The Soft Mode is for users who prefer a slower cutting speed or beginners who are new to the trade. Same speed as the previous model F3015. (Refer to the video to see soft mode in operation.
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The new patented shear holder provides the cutting head protection and storage in just two actions.
Available for Standard and Medium heads.
** Fitted with Quick Lock-Unlock
The removable accessory holder is included with your F3020 kit and allows you to store your smartphone within easy reach.
A large zipped central pocket guarantees safe storage of sharpening stone, burnishing tools, etc.
The Electrocoup F3020's new Cobalt L100B Lithium-ion battery weighs just 698 grams compared to 810 grams from the F3015. Its voltage is now 36 Volts as compared to the 48 Volts*** on the old F3015 model. However, the 48V battery from previous units is compatible with the new F3020. We can offer an optional 48V battery if you would like to make your previous units cross-compatible.
Its sleek design and small footprint will give you a day of pruning without recharging. With its versatile carrying system, the F3020 battery can be easily slipped into the user's pocket or clipped to a belt, giving the user an effortless pruning experience.
Battery used with Shoulder Straps and Waist Belt
Battery Used with Waistbelt Only
Battery Clipped on to Trousers
How long does it take to charge the battery?
The new F3020 Chargers are designed to charge the battery in 2 hours. Similar to its predecessor, the new charger enables the battery to be charged up to 90% in 1.5 hours and a full charge is achieved in 2 hours.
Can the battery remain on the vest while charging?
The new connector plug allows for the battery to be charged while on the vest, making it more practical and easier to use.
How does the Battery Sleep Mode work?
The "Sleep Function" on the charger helps the battery fall into an extended storage state, thus optimising its storage life. Recharging the battery is no longer required during the off-season. Just press the sleep button once after the pruning season, and it does its thing for the next few hours. Once the sleep process is complete, the battery can be stored in its case in a cool, dry place until the following season.
Infaco, the manufacturer of the Electrocoups, have always prioritised user safety over the years. A true pioneer in technology, the company has continually invested time and resources to ensure an innovative and safe experience for its users operating the Electrocoups. Today, the all-new Electrocoup F3020 comes fitted with the wireless DSES system and is a standard feature on all units.
The Wireless DSES system comprises a conductive metal trigger enabling a connection between the user's body and the pruner's patented electronic system. While operating, if and when the cutting head touches any part of the opposite hand, the pruning shear blade opens instantly, thereby preventing accidents.
The Wireless DSES system operates in direct contact with the skin. However, each individual has their own level of conductivity. In order to achieve a continuous level of high conductivity and better protection, INFACO recommends the use of its special conductive gloves.
The Wireless DSES system may sometimes trigger unintended opens on damp wood, sappy wood or when close to the ground. To prevent this from happening, users now have the option of turning OFF & ON the DSES feature when required, using the settings button.
Contrary to the wireless system, the wired DSES option requires the user to wear the conductive glove that is physically connected to the handpiece by a power supply cable. The wired DSES system provides the user the same protection while reducing unintentional opening of the blade because of damp or sappy wood.
Similar to its most recent predecessors, Electrocoups remain the only shears in the world with 3 interchangeable heads with adjustable blade opening and DSES safety systems. One of the tool's main assets is its versatility to use multiple cutting heads. With the options of the Standard Kit, Medium Kit or the Maxi Kit, users can easily swap the heads over in under 5 mins to meet the demands of the cutting application. Kits are optional and not part of the standard kit. Please ask for details.
Ideal for pruning grapevines and orchard pruning. This kit achieves the highest results for cutting rate and power.
Designed especially for fruit growers, forestry, and landscaping. This kit offers a higher cutting capacity while maintaining speed for relevant applications.
Perfect for cutting back vines, shaping fruit trees, and tree lopping. This kit with a single-piece blade-rack combo will give unrivaled cutting capacity.
Infaco's design engineers have completely revolutionized the pole system by creating an ergonomic and innovative solution. There are 2 different kinds of pole options available with this new model. First option is the pole can be connected to the battery through a cord and the second option is the battery can be plugged in at the bottom of the pole. Both options have the cord on the sliding handle eliminated and replaced by a more advanced wireless Bluetooth technology making it easy and convenient to use.
Pole size options in the image to right.
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Extension Pole with Wired Battery Connection
Extension Pole with Plug In Battery
Battery not included with Pole
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Regular blade sharpening reduces the cutting force exerted on the motor of the Electrocoup and also helps to reduce motor stress. Infaco recommends the use of the optional electric sharpener to help keep the blade profile sharp. Thanks to its 3-pin connector plug, the A48V3 electric sharpener is now compatible with the Electrocoup F3005, F3010, F3015, and F3020 batteries. It saves significant time on daily sharpening and maintains a good cutting profile on the blade.
See video at 1:02 for the A48V3 Electric Sharpener in action.
The new tungsten carbide burnisher helps maintain a good cutting edge on the blade. A sharp blade guarantees a good, clean cut and reduces the risk of spreading wood diseases. In addition to 2 recommended daily sharpening sessions with the stone, it is also advised to use the new Carbide Burnisher to maintain a sharp edge on the blade for a good, clean cut.
With the latest innovations in wireless connectivity, the Electrocoup F3020 pruning shears can be connected to the newly designed INFACO mobile app (available exclusively on Android and iOS compatible smartphones) through the Bluetooth Control Box.
The app provides a wide array of features that assist Electrocoup users in day-to-day operations:
The app also allows users (without the Bluetooth Control Box)
SMART PRUNING FOR STRONGER, HIGHER-YIELD OLIVE TREES
By Marcelo Berlanda, Agronomist & Consultant for The Olive Centre
“Olive trees must put out fresh growth each year to produce fruit.”
Training shapes the tree to support efficient harvesting and encourage early production
When trees reach the canopy size best suited to their environment, yields may begin to drop. This often happens because the inner canopy receives limited sunlight, leading to leaf loss and a reduced Leaf-to-Wood Ratio. If a tree grows beyond its ideal size, it creates challenges for mechanical harvesters. Excess height and width, along with thick branches, can strain or damage harvesting equipment, reduce fruit removal efficiency, and slow the harvest. Because olive trees need to produce new shoots annually to maintain fruiting, consistent growth is essential—and pruning becomes an important management practice. Pruning improves fruit size, oil content, light penetration, and the Leaf-to-Wood Ratio. It also stimulates fresh growth and lowers water and fertiliser demand.
1- TREE TRAINING
Purpose: Establish early productivity with stronger yields, extend the productive lifespan of the tree, enhance fruit quality, and prepare trees for the harvesting system used in the grove.
Timing: Training occurs within the first three years of the tree’s development.
In the first year, pruning is minimal (assuming nursery trees arrive with a good structure). Remove lower or overly vigorous branches that compete with the central leader. The goal is to maintain an upright main trunk with outward-growing horizontal branches. Water shoots should be removed so they do not compete for nutrients and moisture.
During the second and third years, gradually remove lower branches below approximately 600–1000 mm.
A balance is essential. Removing too much canopy reduces the tree’s photosynthetic area, slowing its progress until new growth resumes.
Light pruning involves removing only small sections of foliage (such as a few short shoots), which keeps the tree stable. This can be done from August through late May.
Heavy pruning removes larger amounts of foliage, prompting a stronger regrowth response but also increasing frost risk. Heavy cuts should generally be delayed until late September unless conditions are warm enough to begin earlier.
Tree training may also include tying and skirting as part of shaping and preparation.
2- PRODUCTION
Young trees contain many non-productive branches because they are still actively growing. Once these branches mature and begin producing fruit, they eventually become exhausted and stop fruiting. At that point, they need to be removed to make room for new productive growth and renewal of the canopy.
LoIf the bloom is light, pruning should focus mainly on non-productive wood to preserve as much fruiting potential as possible. In years with heavy bloom, pruning can be more assertive without significantly reducing the crop.
Timing: From bud break through early December.
3- AFTER HARVEST (CLEANING)
The goal at this stage is to remove large damaged branches left behind after mechanical harvest. This step can be postponed by applying copper after harvest and waiting until spring to remove the affected wood.
Read More: ● Marcelo Berlanda ● Mechanical Pruning ● Mechanical Harvesting
Marcelo Berlanda’s “Pruning for Production” guide highlighted why olive pruning is vital to sustain yields. This article builds on that foundation, focusing on how to encourage the growth of productive fruiting wood in Australian olive groves.
Olive trees bear fruit on one-year-old shoots – the growth produced in the previous season. Ensuring a steady supply of these young, fruitful shoots each year is critical for consistent yields. Without renewal, canopies fill with aging wood that carries fewer leaves and buds, leading to lower productivity. Pruning is therefore geared toward a few fundamental objectives :
Understanding how and when olive fruiting buds form helps refine pruning practices. Unlike deciduous fruit trees, olives do not have a true winter dormancy – their buds remain in a state of quiescence and will grow when conditions permit. Flower buds initiate relatively late: studies have shown that olive buds begin differentiating into inflorescences about 2 months before bloom (around late winter/early spring in the local climate). This means the buds on this year’s spring flowering shoots were formed in the late summer or autumn of last year, on the previous year’s wood. Crucially, those buds needed sufficient resources and light while they were forming.
Several physiological factors influence fruitful bud development:
Takeaway: Productive fruiting wood arises from a balance – neither too vegetative nor too weak – and it needs sunlight. Pruning is the tool to create that balance by removing what’s unproductive and making space for fruitful shoots under the right environmental conditions.
Having set the physiological context, we now turn to pruning methods that encourage renewal of fruiting wood. The approach will vary with the age of the tree and the orchard system (traditional vs. high-density), but several general principles apply:
By applying these pruning techniques, growers encourage a continuous supply of young fruiting wood while avoiding the pitfalls of over-pruning. The result is a tree that renews itself gradually: always plenty of 1-year shoots ready for the next crop, and no big shocks to the tree’s system.
Olive orchards in Australia range from traditional low-density plantings to modern high-density (HD) and super-high-density (SHD) groves. The principles of fruiting wood renewal apply to all, but the methods and intensity of pruning are adjusted to each system’s needs :
In summary, the pruning strategy must fit the system: gentle but regular for intensive hedges, somewhat heavier but less frequent for large traditional trees, and always aimed at keeping enough young wood in the pipeline. Regardless of system, the fundamentals remain: capture sunlight, encourage new shoots, and remove what’s unproductive.
Pruning not only influences yields – it also plays a significant role in Integrated Pest and Disease Management (IPDM). A well-pruned olive canopy is generally healthier and easier to protect. Here’s how encouraging productive wood ties in with pest and disease considerations:
In summary, a sound pruning regimen is a cornerstone of IPM in olives. It reduces pest and disease pressure naturally by altering the micro-environment and improving the efficacy of other controls. Always balance the need for opening the canopy with the tree’s productive capacity – a healthy medium density (not too sparse) is the target, so that you don’t invite sunscald or stress. With those caveats, pruning is one of the most cost-effective pest management tools a grower has.
Beyond pruning itself, several environmental and cultural factors influence how well an olive tree can produce new, fruitful wood. Understanding these helps growers create conditions that favour the continual renewal of fruiting shoots:
In summary, productive fruiting wood is not just about cutting branches – it’s the outcome of the whole orchard management system. Pruning is the mechanical stimulus, but water, nutrients, and overall tree stress levels determine how the tree responds. The best results come when pruning is synced with these factors: prune to shape the growth, irrigate and fertilise to support it (but not overdo it), and protect the tree from stresses that could derail the process. By doing so, growers in Australia can maintain olive canopies that are youthful, vigorous, and laden with fruitful shoots year after year.
Encouraging productive fruiting wood in olives is both an art and a science. The art lies in “reading” the tree – knowing which branches to remove and which to spare – while the science lies in understanding olive physiology and applying evidence-based practices. In this follow-up to Marcelo Berlanda’s pruning guide, we have underlined the key strategies:
Sources: This article integrates findings from peer-reviewed studies and reputable industry publications, including research by Gómez-del-Campo et al. on light and yield distribution, Tombesi and Connor on pruning and olive physiology, Rousseaux et al. on bud dormancy and flowering, and Australian olive industry resources (NSW DPI, AOA IPDM manual) on best practices. These sources reinforce the recommendations above and ensure advice is aligned with the latest understanding of olive tree management.
